All posts by Rian Farisa

Rian Farisa stars himself in a flick about how a culinary correspondent living a life full of adventures as if he will live forever. At the end of the day, he lives to retell the chronicles of his swashbuckling daring gastronomic adventures like a bard singing his tales of beautiful faraway lands. Since gastronomy consists of complex aspects and that is where his passion lies, he decided to unravel how businessmen, hawkers and luxurious restaurants alike, serve their dishes for the patrons. Whether they only serve for the advantages in taste or only the surroundings or whether they really throw anything for the sake of customer's satisfaction, he shall be solely the only one who can tell and in the name of this noble profession, justice shall be done!

Coffee Talk With Sagaleh

Meet Dhydha Maryudha – one of the co-owners of Sagaleh, among the first coffee shops that pioneered the emergence of es kopi susu beverage. With the industry landscape is now much more diversified, he shares his two cents about the business.

In just mere three years, coffee shops are sprouting like wildfire across Indonesia. Early last decade, it was all initiated by a handful of third-wave coffee shops, championing both local beans and micro batches from across the globe. The movement sparked a renewed nationwide appreciation toward coffee and the dynamics that surround it.

Among which is something that’s exclusively found in Indonesia and it’s none other than es kopi susu. This is a refreshing mixture of espresso shots with milk and mixed with homemade sugar sauce, with many prefer using brown sugar. Sagaleh however has its own recipe and was among the pioneers alongside Toko Kopi Tuku, Kopi Sana, Animo, and Di Bawah Tangga.

How it all began

Before fully inheriting RM Sepakat – a long standing Padang restaurant in Blok M, Dhydha and the rest of third generation owners decided to open their own business first. As to why a coffee business, he simply says that’s because everyone in the family likes coffee!

I remembered a day in 2017 when I walked down this downhill alley around Petogogan, South Jakarta. There I found Sagaleh and it was not the coffee shop that I would had imagined. It was a home, designed for takeaway orders. There were also stools reserved mostly for Gojek drivers. That was my first time enjoying their bold and indulging es kopi susu. It’s among my personal favorites and tastes consistently the same today.

Sagaleh started out modestly without investing in professional espresso coffee machine. “Four portable stoves and ten moka pots. That’s what it takes to brew our coffee”, Dhydha reminisces. Those days, Gojek was not yet available as easily as today. How they did it was just by letting everyone know that they’re open for business through social media. “We still received last order the day before delivery. The next day, we’re using GoSend to deliver our beverages – even to as far as Tangerang and Cibubur!”, he adds.

However, it wasn’t long until they can finally harness the full might of Gojek to catapult the Sagaleh into a well-known powerhouse in es kopi susu business.

Growth and expansions

A few months later, Sagaleh received an opportunity to expand. With overflowing orders keep on coming, the owners must consider an option to move out and not intruding their residential neighbors furthermore. Since then, a small shop tucked on Jalan Sambas – Blok M, became their new home. It was not only designed for takeaway orders, but also for hanging out.

However, the big break came almost just a year after they first started the business and this time the offer came from Pondok Indah Mall. It was still rare in 2018 to find an es kopi susu vendor in shopping malls. Until this day, the one at Pondok Indah Mall remains among the best performing of all Sagaleh outlets.

In 2019, Sagaleh opened up their flagship store in Panglima Polim area. Designated as a hub, Rumah Sagaleh shares its space with a barber shop. Inside, you can find more seats and even outdoor space. The kitchen was also set up to cater more more food menu to complement your drinks.

“Finally, we have a complete portfolio for Sagaleh. A full-fledged coffee shop, a smaller shop like the one on Jalan Sambas, and a tenant at a lifestyle shopping mall”, explains Dhydha.

The road ahead


Now there are more than just the three outlets in Jakarta. Only recently, they have expanded to Bandung and soon at least a couple more will be opened. “We are also considering for other cities as well. Would be great to reach 10 shops this 2020!”, exclaims Dhydha, brimming with confidence.

Even so, the pathway that Sagaleh leads to is to grow organically. With rapid expansions of several brands in the coffee shop business recently, it was only natural for us to ask his two cents about it. “Do you think such growth is deemed healthy for the industry and the competition?”, we ask.

Wisely Dhydha answers that he does not worry about it. “As long as we can all compete healthily, it should be okay. But my concern would be the astronomical demands for the farmers”, he continues. A just concern, remembering that Indonesian farmers capacity to cater such scale is being seriously challenged.

“Venture capitalists are now partnering with coffee shops and they now have serious KPI to fulfill. Such offer was once presented for us, but we decided to just grow the business by ourselves”, explains Dhydha. The new direction from the management of Sagaleh is not only expanding their business gradually, but to also focusing on quality without forgetting their roots.

“To bridge the gap between es kopi susu and specialty coffee would be where we’re heading next. It’s already challenging to maintain consistency with the products and our human resources. So in the end, it’s all about creating a sustainable business for the long run”, he says.

This article was published in Passion Magazine



RUMAH SAGALEH

Address:
Ruko Dharmawangsa Square, Jl. Darmawangsa VI No.20, RT.5/RW.1, Pulo, Kec. Kby. Baru, Kota Jakarta Selatan, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta 12160Plaza Senayan, LG Sogo, Jl. Asia Afrika No.8, Senayan, Jakarta

Opening hours:
Daily, 8am-10pm

https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d3966.1214030524197!2d106.80004931439197!3d-6.2477289954776065!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x2e69f1477028ac93%3A0x6a15e14125dd244a!2sRumah%20Sagaleh!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sid!4v1604072609741!5m2!1sen!2sid

Mooning Over Cold Moo’s Ice Cream

Kota Jakarta kini merupakan sarang berbagai panganan pencuci mulut – dari cokelat hingga toko es krim. Bicara soal yang satu ini, Jakarta punya warisan es krim sejak jaman colonial, es krim gaya modern, hingga gelato. Sungguh era yang menyenangkan bagi penggemar makanan manis karena bisa menjajal lebih banyak tempat.

Menariknya, Cold Moo punya satu perbedaan unik dengan yang lainnya, meskipun sama-sama mencari rasa yang seimbang dan tekstur pada produknya. Ia tidak berfokus pada aksi teatrikal seperti es krim Turki ataupun yang dibuat di atas batu granit beku. Begitupun ia bukan tipe es krim premium ataupun gelato. Kami menjumpai Nick dan Ali, pasangan di balik Cold Moo yang berbagi cerita suksesnya. Popularitas Cold Moo dimulai sejak tahun 2018 selagi masih menjadi tenant di Pelaspas, satu hub kuliner anak muda di Jakarta Selatan.

Setelah jalan beberapa bulan, pengunjung semakin memadati Cold Moo. Namun karena tempatnya yang terlalu kecil, mereka memutuskan untuk pindah tidak jauh menuju ruko di seberang The Darmawangsa Square. Awal tahun ini, Cold Moo dibuka kembali dan langsung menjadi tempat yang hype lagi. Dengan kapasitas lebih besar, Cold Moo kini memiliki satu lantai khusus untuk kedai kopi dan berjualan cookies. 

Panggil saja barista berpengalaman Mario untuk kebutuhan kopimu, atau teman-teman lainnya kalau ingin mencoba cookies buatan Ali yang dipanggang baru setiap hari. Naik ke lantai dua dan bertemu dengan Nick untuk memesan es krim favoritmu. Kalau baru pertama kali ke sini, maka es krim Cold Moo akan menjadi bintang di hari ini! “Alasan mengapa Cold Moo berbeda adalah karena penggunaan mesin bor untuk es krim ini. Tugasnya adalah mengaduk semua bahan agar tercipta rasa es krim yang segar serta sesuai yang diinginkan”, jelas Nick. Namun kalau begitu, mengapa bukan es krim pada umumnya? Ali kemudian menjawab, “Orang Indonesia adalah penggemar tekstur dan makanan sehari-hari mereka terdiri dari banyak tekstur. Pengalaman tekstural inilah yang menjadikan bersantap es krim lebih seru”.

Tersihir adalah kata yang tepat ketika melihat proses membuatnya yang menarik. Apalagi segenap kru Cold Moo dapat melakukannya dengan sangat baik. Hasilnya adalah satu porsi sweet milk ice cream yang dipadukan dengan topping kesukaan. Contohnya rasa Special K yang memadukan es krim dasar dengan stroberi segar dan corn flakes. Lalu ada juga Banana Krisps yang memadukan pisang dengan Rice Krispies.

Dengan menggunakan mesin bor ini maka setiap suapnya adalah rasa dan tekstur yang selalu seimbang. Penasaran, saya bertanya lebih jauh tentang mesinnya. “Mesin buatan Amerika Serikat harganya bisa 13 kali lipat dari yang ini. Ya, itulah sebabnya kita menggunakan buatan China”, jawab Nick. “Untungnya ayah Nick mengetahui banyak soal mesin sehingga bisa membantu untuk memperbaiki bila rusak. Selain itu, kita memang membeli mesin ekstra sebagai pendukung”, tambah Ali.

Es krim Cold Moo terjual di angka ribuan saat akhir pekan. Ini menjadikan saya penasaran juga dengan kue yang turut menjadi ciri khasnya. “Lima ratus buah terjual saat weekday”, sahut Ali. Langsung saja kita menuju ke lantai tiga, tempat pembuatan kue berlangsung. Di sana saya menemukan sebuah dapur yang didesain dengan baik untuk kebutuhan sehari-hari, produksi, bahkan untuk kelas memasak.

“Kami biasanya memproduksi dalam batch kecil agar memastikan bahwa kualitasnya terjaga”, jelas Ali. Selanjutnya saya juga menanyakan mengenai alat-alat yang digunakan. “Kami menggunakan oven merk Turbofan dengan tiga rak, karena lebih baru dan lebih baik daripada oven dengan merk yang sama namun dengan empat rak. Untuk mixer, saya menggunakan tipe klasik dan profesional namun hanya berukuran kecil dan bukan untuk industry. Ini membantu saya untuk mencapai tekstur dan teknik yang diinginkan”, begitu lanjutnya.

Di satu titik, es krim dan kue milik Cold Moo berpadu menjadi satu rasa premium yang jadi favorit para penggemarnya. Cold Moo adalah satu contoh prima dimana es krim, kopi, dan kue saling mendukung satu sama lain dengan seimbang. Meskipun sukses, Nick dan Ali tetap menjaga kerendahan hati mereka. “Para pelanggan kami adalah pahlawannya. Di akhir hari, kami tidak mungkin mencapai ini semua tanpa mereka. Masih banyak dari mereka yang merupakan pelanggan sejak pertama buka dan ini sangat berarti bagi kami. Tanpa mereka, bisnis kami tidak akan berkembang seperti sekarang”, begitu tutupnya. 


This article was published in Passion Magazine



COLD MOO

Address:
Ruko Dharmawangsa Square, Jl. Darmawangsa VI No.20, RT.5/RW.1, Pulo, Kec. Kby. Baru, Kota Jakarta Selatan, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta 12160Plaza Senayan, LG Sogo, Jl. Asia Afrika No.8, Senayan, Jakarta

Opening hours:
Wed-Sun, 9am-6pm

Eskimomo: A Story of Passion and Perseverance

It takes patience, perseverance, and sacrifices to see one’s passionate pursue finally came to fruition. Gupta Sitorus and Primo Rizky, the duo behind all things good coming from Eskimomo ice cream, shared their story of success here.  

What’s the story behind Eskimomo?

Eskimomo was started in 2013 and we are ardent believers of anything that started with passion, not ambition, will always end well. Both of us love desserts so much and we wanted to start something that can evoke a lot of creativity. What made sense with our circumstances back then was to start a humble ice cream business. For us, ice cream is such a colorful playground and sky’s the only limit.

As we grow, we are still committed to this industry and have done a lot of developments in terms of our taste portfolio, cooking techniques, while also learning from the more experienced as well.

Can you describe what kind of ice cream that Eskimomo offers?

Our kind of ice cream is what the industry would categorize as ultra-premium ice cream. In contrast with the massively produced industrial type that can yield twice or thrice after churning the mixture for hours, our version will only yield additional 30%. That’s why compared to them, our ice cream has thicker texture, a bit chewy, and rather similar with gelato.

As to why we chose this approach, our initial determinations back then concluded that Indonesian market did not bother (yet) with the differences between gelato and ice cream. In terms of cooking techniques though, there’s not much difference aside from some of the ingredients. However, in terms of investments, gelato machines are more on the high-end side. Eskimomo had humble beginnings and once again, it all started with passion and not mere ambition. That’s our way to avoid unnecessary risks as well.

Tell us why you guys prefer the B2B approach?

That has always been our aim since the beginning, to tell you the truth. We both have other businesses in publishing and as consultants as well. Therefore, it wouldn’t make any sense to present ourselves in retail business as a full-time job. Jakarta is challenging for ice cream business and hats off for those who build their retail presence bravely here, but it’s just not our thing in the end. Perhaps later when an opportunity arises, we’d like to consider that again.

Why the B2B? Partly because we can manage our time better with this approach. It’s more reasonable for us and yet, it’s no less profitable than retail. We get to keep our creativity all the time as well, since our B2B clients may ask for customized flavors. For instance, we have our Pinacolada ice cream for Mexican theme, we have Putu flavor for Indonesian, we have others for Japanese, and many more.

What are your signature flavors and the most unique you ever came up with?

Our Apple Pie flavor is still the best-seller to date. Other signature flavors we have are the Choco Orange, Choco Mint, and Salted Caramel Popcorn. We are adopting the Philadelphian-style ice cream and that enables us to explore with more flavors rather than the Parisian.

Lately, we are exploring a lot of Indonesian flavors. We did Kunyit Asam sorbet, just because we were intrigued with the tamarind we found in Cirebon. We created the Nasi Lemak flavor when we had this gig once in Kuala Lumpur – made from tempe kecap, caramelized anchovies, sweet chili jam, rice pudding, and emping. Recently in Singapore, we did Martabak flavor and Sayur Asem sorbet!

Where can we find your ice creams in Jakarta and how many do you produce?

We supply our ice cream to Beau, Lewis & Carroll, Taco Local, Baoji, Honu, Ramurasa, Coffee AYA, and several others. Currently we have a single client that orders around 6,000 cups per month.

You guys have come a long way, haven’t you?

We now have several ice cream machines each with an output of 5 liters per hour or so. We have three kitchen assistants and a courier to drop our ice cream fresh every day for clients.

Looking back, we only have this tabletop, home appliance quality, ice cream machine that can only produce a liter per hour or equal to 10 cups. One time, the pedal was broken and we, in turn, had to churn it manually by hand! We need to finish everything that night just because we’re heading for an event in Bandung the next day.

We did this at home after 9 to 7 work every day back then and it’s for a business that was not more profitable than our salaries. But well, that’s passion for you, and looking back, we have come quite a long way!

Any plans after this?

We are so blessed with internet nowadays. Back then, you need to go somewhere far just to study about ice cream making. However, we still would like to get a degree for it and we’re enrolling for food science degree at Penn State University starting at the end of this year. We need to learn more about the R&D, how to deal business in industrial scale, and that’s important since Eskimomo is heading more seriously that way.



The article was published in Passion Magazine

The Pancake Co. by DORÉ: The Rise of Japanese-style Pancakes

Good food is the reason to explore Plaza Senayan these days, especially the lower levels of it. Traditionally here, people are going upstairs for the renowned food court and the shopping mall’s signature restaurants. Downstairs, a gourmet supermarket has many other things aside from its goods and the foreigners visiting it. As a foodie, it’s a playground full of wonders to explore.

The Pancake Co. by DORÉ resides within the area of the supermarket, at a lot once rented by several curated shops. The name DORÉ it self came from DORÉ by LeTAO, which has been known for the past four years for its successful cheesecake business in Jakarta. Last November, the management decided to venture into new terrain and The Pancake Co. by DORÉ opened just a couple of months back.

You might think that it’s another pancake shop but quite surprisingly, it isn’t. Unlike the American-style pancake – flat, floury, and with flavors coming from the toppings only, this one is the total opposite. But before you can taste one to see the difference, a friendly word of advice, you need to build up your patience to wait for 20 minutes of cooking preparations.

The dough needs to be shaped into thick circle over the grill pan and then cooked evenly. It is in contrast with the usual flat pancake we have been very familiar with. Currently, you can choose over four types of toppings to accompany the pancake here. Ask for the original that has vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and nama cream. There are options also for chocolate lovers and those who want to enjoy fruits with it.

Once served, it is recommended for you to enjoy the pancake immediately. Its fluffy consistency cannot be retained for long and will quickly shrink in just under 5 minutes. So, unlike the usual floury pancake, The Pancake Co. by DORÉ’s version has the souffle-like texture that’s both spongy and creamy. DORÉ’s specialization in anything cheese makes it possible to create a formula that has a lot of flavors offered inside. Add a bit of ice cream or maple syrup if you will, but personally, I like it just the way it is!

Heading to other parts in the menu, The Pancake Co. by DORÉ offers all-day brunch dishes. Among those that are recommended are the Spiced Eggs Benedict with beef and chicken bacon or Emmental Cheese Toast using brioche and served with the house specialty corn soup, perfect also for dipping. The Chicken Quesadillas proved to be a decent sharing menu and served with homemade sour cream, guacamole, and mango salsa.

As for the main course, the Classic Carbonara is a must-have, especially because it’s complemented with onsen egg and the luxuriously smoky, sliced Scarmorza cheese. Another must-have would be the garlic fried rice topped with steak, onsen egg, and a drizzle of truffle oil. And for the desserts, you can always opt to have sliced cheesecakes – courtesy of DORÉ by LeTAO.

Described as a happy and lively place, The Pancake Co. by DORÉ would be a worthy visit if you are planning to have your daily dose of pancakes with your loved ones and enjoying European-style brunch dishes with Japanese touch. Come prepared for the waiting list and the 20-minute wait for its unique souffle pancake. But need not worry because not far in the future, The Pancake Co. by DORÉ will open another outlet. Can’t wait for that!


This article was published in Passion Magazine


THE PANCAKE CO. BY DORE – PLAZA INDONESIA

Address:
Plaza Senayan, LG Sogo, Jl. Asia Afrika No.8, Senayan, Jakarta

Website:
https://www.instagram.com/pancakecobydore/

Opening hours:
Daily, 10am – 10pm

Joe & Dough: All the Way From Singapore to Jakarta

The competitive advantage in the pastry department was the forte that Joe & Dough achieved since the beginning. Unlike most café players, Joe & Dough insisted in baking their own breads to ensure consistent quality and constant innovation. That can be seen right away from its most basic product and yet widely known Butter Croissant. It takes a full three-days process and using only 100% French butter to create perfection and that’s what they are willing to go through.

Since 2010, Joe & Dough started to supply handmade artisanal breads, home-styled cakes, and other patisseries to meet the ever-increasing demand for their outlets. True to its name, Joe & Dough is now well-known for their specialty coffee and artisanal baked goods handcrafted using time-honored recipes.

It’s very exciting to see that Indonesians are more aware with brands and quality nowadays, especially with good food. This is an opportunity that Joe & Dough has been waiting for and that day came in late 2018 with the opening of their first outlet in Plaza Indonesia. The Puri Indah Mall outlet came next in quick succession.

At their outlets, customers are immediately treated with an array of freshly baked goods displayed on the store front. Croissants of many types, Cruffins or the crispy-fluffy muffin in Apple Pie and PB&J flavors, Brionuts – the crossover between brioche and donut, or the classic Kouign Amann. That’s already a quick fix of breakfast with coffee for Jakartans who are in a hurry.

Fancy having a slice of cake with tea? Joe & Dough’s Gula Melaka Pandan Cake would be an interesting choice, especially for Southeast Asians. It’s a fragrant and moist pandan-infused butter cake slathered with gula Melaka and topped with desiccated coconut. Another choice would be their traditional Carrot Cake, deliciously filled with shredded carrots, chopped walnuts, raisins and cinnamons, and smothered with cream cheese frosting. The latter is currently only available at the Puri Indah Mall outlet.

Not just for takeaways or simply just having a cuppa there, Joe & Dough prepares heavier meals also to accompany business lunches, brunches and leisure times. Enjoy their Truffled Egg Cocotte, an indulging sous vide egg topped with cheese, garlic croutons with green salad. The premium choice of Short Ribs Mac & Triple Cheese would be equally indulging and even more. It consists of 24-hour slowly cooked premium beef short ribs on elbow pasta tossed in a blend of mozzarella, cheddar, and parmesan.

Have a seat at their conservatory section in Plaza Indonesia, enjoy your meals and you will be treated with a rare view. On the outdoor area, you will see an aesthetically painted mural 8 meters in height on a 1,000 square feet wall! Especially on a sunny day, it’s as if you’d rather spend more time here than anywhere else.


This article was published in Passion Magazine


JOE & DOUGH – PLAZA INDONESIA

Address:
Plaza Indonesia L2 #011C, RT.4/RW.1, Kebon Melati, Menteng, Central Jakarta City, Jakarta 10230

Website:
http://www.joeanddough.com/

Opening hours:
Daily, 10am – 10pm