Category Archives: Interviews

Chef Emmanuel Julio: Ushering The Era of Progressive Indonesian Cuisine (Passion, 2017)

Seasoned in rigorous kitchens of five-star hotels from Indonesia to as far as UAE, the Executive Sous Chef Emmanuel Julio from The Dharmawangsa shared us a story about his passion with Indonesian cuisine and his modernist effort to promote it internationally.

Can you share a bit about your career as a chef so far?

Back when I was a boy, my parents used to run a restaurant here in Jakarta and also a catering service. Inspired, I decided to learn more about the world of hospitality during college.

My apprenticeship years in the kitchen started from Regent Hotel and later at Four Seasons in the early 2000s. Since I was only studying general hospitality at Trisakti, I had to start everything from a scratch to become a real chef. Chef Vindex Tengker became my mentor until he resigned from here a few years ago.

After my sixth year at the Regent and Four Seasons, I wanted to seek experience abroad. I was posted in Dubai, again with Four Seasons. After quite some time and together with an Italian chef I used to work with there, he tagged me a long for a pre-opening project at Armani Hotel. After spending five years in Dubai, I finally found my way back home and landed here at The Dharmawangsa.

You have done a considerable length to promote Indonesian cuisine with The Dharmawangsa. Care to share us about it?

It’s all about staying true to the establishment’s concept as a luxurious Indonesian hotel and promoting what we dub as Progressive Indonesian Cuisine. Since the initiative started several years ago, we have done a lot of research and becoming more creative in the way we present it.

It’s a perpetual work in progress but it’s going very well, I have to say. Over the years, we have seen younger generations became more and more enthusiastic with this approach. Not long ago, a Dutch chef specifically came here to study our approach with this modern twist and soon he will be opening a fine-dining Indonesian restaurant back in The Netherlands.

Can you tell us about your recent experience promoting Indonesian cuisine abroad?

Quite recently we were hired to help promoting Indonesian food in Shanghai together with our embassy there. The crowd was particularly enthusiastic and that’s actually beyond our expectations! Dishes such as soto Betawi, sop buntut, and fried rice were all best-sellers. Aside from rendang and gulai ayam, the visitors were also very fond of our gado-gado.

Care to explain what you are cooking today for us?

Today we have the oysters and granita, but we are using daun kemangi instead of fruits for the granita. I also put acar timun underneath it. Also we have prepared you the cured salmon using beetroot and served with tuturuga sauce. I also put tobiko and caviar on top of the salmon.

The next one we have our modern take of gudeg which I pair with foie gras! Quite surprisingly, the sweet and simple seared foie gras really works well with the the whole character of gudeg. Lastly we have the beef tenderloin cooked using sous-vide techniques and served with semur sauce.

What are the challenges so far with this kind of presentation?

Each generation thinks differently about our approach here. Like I said earlier, the younger people are more open with the ideas, but older generation retain their conservative views.

For example rendang, they say it should be served traditionally – “messy and hearty”, if you will. Whereas of course it’s different with progressive presentations. Of course, the classic approach is very important, but we aim to make Indonesian cuisine also visually appealing on international level.


Original link:
http://www.passionmedia.co.id/b/emmanuel-julio-ushering-the-era-of-progressive-indonesian-cuisine

Images by: Dwi N. Hadi

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Chef Putri Mumpuni: The Relentless Pursuer of Knowledge (Passion, 2017)

For a 26-year-old chef, perhaps only Putri Mumpuni who has seen a lot of actions introducing Indonesian cuisine around the globe through food diplomatic missions. Recently, Putri shared us her adventures and the relentless pursuit of knowledge, now within the world of pastry.

How was it in the beginning for you, Putri?

It was all started with the decision to enroll myself at a trade school so I could be focusing on hospitality in general. There I knew it right away that I wanted to learn more about cookery. Before graduation, I applied for internship at Hyatt Yogyakarta and worked there for about six months.

That time, higher education was a luxury that my parents cannot afford for me since they also wanted my younger siblings to finish primary schools. After getting myself through several odd jobs, I finally landed a job at Grand Aston Yogyakarta right in the hot kitchen and after some time, I managed also to enroll myself at a local university. Working and studying in-between.

Since I wanted so much also to learn about pastry, I was told to spend the extra hours learning about pastry before the working hours. Of course it was unpaid, but in just about a month, I was finally accepted as one of the crews in the pastry department.

While working with Aston, I was also hired by this French family who lives in Yogyakarta as a private chef. My task was to shop and prepare the meals for them for several times a week so they could spend time dining together as a family.

What was the turning point of your career as an aspiring chef back then?

One time I managed to win gold and bronze medals at Salon Culinaire competition in Jakarta for different categories. Until I met Pak William Wongso for the first time and he motivated me to learn more about Indonesian food, something that I wasn’t very familiar with at that time.

The turning point was actually after I decided to focus competing against other chefs in this television show – Top Chef. I had to abandon my study as well as my job with Aston since I was still in the competition for months. In the end, I was eliminated from the Top 9 but I decided to contact Pak William and he offered me a position at his company.

What was the single most challenging task you ever had so far in your career?

My first ever task from Pak William Wongso was to host an Indonesian gala dinner in the Czech Republic for around 80 to 100 embassy guests and foreign dignitaries. I had to do that all by myself!
He asked me, “Putri, can you handle it?” and I said yes with confidence. We did a lot of preparations and I spent around two weeks there. I had to train the local kitchen staffs to cook Indonesian food with minimum communications, since not many can speak English. Google Translate helped me a lot, much to my surprise!

Finally the one-night Gala Dinner went well. We were also preparing Indonesian a la carte menu at the restaurant for the whole two days afterwards.

Share us also your other endeavors with William Wongso’s team across the world?

Usually we received invitations from Indonesian embassies all over the world to organize Indonesian gala dinners or appreciation dinners. So we brought local ingredients, train the local crews, and host the dinners. So far we have been to Japan, South Korea, The Philippines, Germany, France, Singapore, Malaysia, and United States.

However, food diplomacy can go much further than that. Before going to a certain country, we usually get in touch with the Ministry of Education, Ministry of Tourism, or BEKRAF (Indonesian Agency for Creative Economy) so they could coordinate with local institutions to create programs such as workshops, cooking classes, consultancies, or private dinners.

Can you tell us about your work here with BEAU and your future plans?

My move here was fully motivated again by my curiosity with pastry. It’s like when I first tasted how good the real taste of rustic baguette was when in Paris, I really wanted to know how to to make it. The opportunity came and I was very happy to witness firsthand how good Talita is with pastry and her wonderful efforts she has done for BEAU.

Currently I’m being entrusted with the whole operations in the kitchen and together we have been developing the menu since last year. She has taught me a lot and shared many ideas with me so I can improve from time to time.

My future plan? Well, one day I want to manage an Indonesian restaurant abroad, or even perhaps my own restaurant!


Original link:
http://www.passionmedia.co.id/b/putri-mumpuni-the-relentless-pursuer-of-knowledge

Images by: Edwin Pangestu

Chef Eric Gouteyron: The One Who Fell in Love With Indonesia (Passion, 2017)

The seasoned French chef Mr Eric Gouteyron welcomed Passion at his boutique pastry shop L’Amandine in Kelapa Gading, Jakarta. There he told us about his colorful soon-to-be four decade career as a professional pastry chef and how he fell in love deeply with Indonesia.

How did you become a pastry chef?

You can say my passion in this industry went through two important stages in the beginning. First, there was my mother who taught me pastry since I was 12 back in my hometown Le Puy, nearby Lyon.

Then, I decided to pursue my passion and applied for apprenticeship, worked at several pastry shops, and finally met Mr Gerard Sciennat – the second person who inspired me immensely. He’s a gifted pastry chef who always created masterpiece for his clients. He motivated me to join competitions. When I got first place, he gave me an opportunity to train in Paris.

You had a fantastic spell back in New York we heard. Care to tell us about it?

I was recommended by an American friend during my training in Paris to work at The River Cafe in New York, a famous restaurant by the river overlooking the Manhattan district. It’s a very beautiful restaurant and my first time working abroad. Moreover, celebrities frequented the restaurant from time to time. I met Rod Stewart, Luther Vandross, and many more during my time there.

Next I was appointed as the Executive Pastry Chef at The Plaza Hotel, my first time working for five-star establishment. I stayed there for fourteen years and we did also many celebrity weddings there like for Eddy Murphy, Michael Douglas, and for Mr Trump as well – the proprietor at that time.

What’s after New York and why did you decide to stay in Asia afterwards?

Next I joined Fairmont Hotels group and was assigned to their property in Dubai. One time I was also part of the pre-opening team for Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi.

As for why I stay in Asia until now. It all started during my tenure back in Dubai. I was working perhaps with the best team I ever had in my entire career. It was a team comprised of people from different nationalities, and I found out that Indonesians in particular are very passionate people. That’s why I wanted to find out more about Asia. From there I went to Hong Kong and eventually, Indonesia.

How did you start it here in Indonesia?

After a brief spell with Intercontinental Hong Kong, I joined The Harvest here as their F&B Director. At the end of my contract, I met my old friend Chef Chandra Yudasswara, whom I had the pleasure to work with during my time back in Dubai. We work together now. He’s expanding Portable Kitchen & Bar, and I’m running L’Amandine as the pastry counterpart.

So, how would you suggest people to enjoy L’Amandine products and can you highlight some of the best?

Well, imagine yourself back at home and feeling hungry. Imagine how nice it would be to please yourself with a slice of our bread, added with smoked salmon, cold cuts, or put some sour cream on our homemade rye bread. Perhaps you can also make yourself a quick sandwich, with BLT (Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato) and melted cheese on top. You can do a lot of alternatives and very healthy as well.

The signature product for L’Amandine is the Black Diamond – an entremet of almond & chocolate dacquoise, with mild acidity came from passion fruit and the sweet, light bitterness of the chocolate. We have also the Black & White Truffle and Chocolate Double Fudge. We’re also known for our croissants.

Now that you have been living here for quite some time, are you planning to stay in Indonesia for good?

As a chef, it’s difficult to imagine myself dropping the suitcase and settle somewhere permanently. But for Indonesia, I really enjoy myself living here and I am seriously considering to stay for good.
There’s something that I admire from the people. Here people act naturally and they are always smiling. Even though life treats them bad, they are still genuinely happy. This is a situation unlike anywhere else I ever found out during my travels.

Lastly, tell us about your favorite Indonesian food?

Oxtail soup is nice. I also like gado-gado, rendang, and other Padang food! I don’t eat much rice but nasi goreng is a good treat once in a while.


Original link:
http://www.passionmedia.co.id/b/the-one-who-fell-in-love-with-indonesia

Images by: Edwin Pangestu

Chef Jacob Burrell: Surprises Await You at Attarine (Passion, 2017)

Attarine is undoubtedly among Jakarta’s most creative dining scenes to date. At its helm is Executive Chef Jacob Burrell, a man of many talents who skillfully incorporates different cuisines, techniques, and ingredients that uniquely defines the restaurant’s genre. He shares Passion about himself, the restaurant, and a recipe for you to try.

Jacob Burrell has always been a curious person, but becoming a professional chef was never his real intention at the beginning. He wanted to become a teacher since his secondary school days – and that’s a noble aspiration that he still holds dearly until now. You can tell from certain angles that he does look like a teacher and he will thank you for the praise – with a big smile.

He has solid know-how in chemistry and mathematics – the very subjects he wishes to be a teacher of initially. When he received extra credits during his university days, he even took musical theory class. His imposed height came from his fondness of basketball, and he used to coach as well. Not just basketball, but also soccer.

One day he came to a realization that becoming a chef would be the ultimate test of his skills. Not just because he has some basics in cooking back then, but it could be the answer to his endless curiosity. “Cooking is not just physical. There’s history, science, art, business, creativity, people, and psychology involved. It encompasses everything and I fell in love more and more about it”, according to the chef.

So why venture too far at the beginning, one might ask. Mr Burrell will simply answer that he likes to learn about everything. But certainly it would be hard to focus on all that, I then ask. “Yes, but by becoming a chef – it keeps me locked in, excited, and ready to come to work the next day. It’s not boring, I’m still learning, and yet I know absolutely nothing”, replies the chef modestly.

With his man bun and a casual outfit behind the apron, his relaxed manner and inventive creations have won the hearts of many at Attarine. He drew his experience mostly from the stints back with Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant in California, where he also learned a lot about pastry and mastering the wood-fired oven, and working for the three-Michelin starred restaurant Manresa under Chef David Kinch himself.

Our visit to Attarine coincides with the unveiling of the latest menu lineup. The opener started with Market Ceviche that features fresh catch of the day and the use of turmeric for the lime juice. Very refreshing and certainly appetizing. There’s also a stroke of genius found on jackfruit on sourdough toast. Sweet and pleasantly familiar, this one easily dominates the appetizer section.

For the main course, there’s the BBQ whole squid which was done immaculately and it sits over a bed of what one would call as “sambal ijo” and paired curiously with crispy baby pototoes. The clincher came from six hours long braised short ribs with oyster sauce and shiitake mushrooms. Suddenly it’s Chinese now and how wonderful could that be!

So come and converse with the chef, ask for his recommendations, and have the starters and the mains together for everyone. You’ll find that an adventure across the world awaits you here. Back home, don’t forget to try the recipe for Market Ceviche, courtesy of the chef himself.


BAHASA:

Attarine menjadi satu restoran yang paling kreatif di Jakarta saat ini. Dipimpin oleh Chef Jacob Burrell yang penuh talenta; dengan lihai ia menggabungkan berbagai jenis masakan, teknik, serta bahan-bahan yang menjadikan Attarine unik. Kali ini sang chef berbagi cerita tentang dirinya dan satu resep untuk Anda coba.

Sejatinya seorang Jacob Burrell adalah orang yang penuh rasa penasaran, namun berkarir menjadi seorang chef profesional belum terpikirkan di saat ia masih muda. Jacob muda ingin menjadi seorang guru, dan cita-cita yang mulia itu masih ia simpan hingga hari ini.

Dengan latar belakang mumpuni di bidang kimia dan matematika, Jacob sebagai mahasiswa juga belajar mengenai musik. Selain itu ia juga hobi bermain bola basket dan memiliki pengalaman menjadi seorang pelatih. Tidak hanya basket, namun juga sepak bola.

Satu hari Jacob menyadari bahwa menjadi seorang chef adalah sebuah aspirasi yang akan menguji segala kemampuannya yang dimilikinya. Berbekal hanya pengalaman memasak di masa kuliahnya, ia merasa menjadi seorang chef adalah jawaban dari segala rasa penasarannya.

“Memasak bukan sekadar membutuhkan kekuatan fisik. Ada sisi sejarah, sains, seni, bisnis, kreativitas, ilmu SDM, dan psikologi di dalamnya. Profesi chef menuntut kita mengetahui semuanya dan ini menjadikan saya semakin jatuh cinta berkarir di sini”, ujar sang chef.

Namun mengapa mencoba segala hal terlalu jauh? Chef Jacob menjawab bahwa ia ingin mempelajari segala hal. Tentunya sulit untuk bisa belajar segala hal, tapi baginya memasak menjadikannya tetap bersemangat dan siap meniti hari esok. “Saya tidak pernah merasa bosan dan saya terus belajar menjadi chef yang baik. Namun semakin saya belajar, justru semakin saya tidak tahu”, sahutnya rendah hati sembari berkelakar.

Penampilan Chef Jacob terlihat santai tapi ia begitu mumpuni untuk menelurkan berbagai hidangan kreatif ternyata membuat pengunjung Attarine kepincut. Sang chef dahulunya pernah bekerja untuk Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant di California, serta untuk Manresa – sebuah restoran berbintang tiga Michelin dan dibimbing langsung oleh Chef David Kinch sendiri.

Kunjungan Passion ke Attarine ternyata bertepatan dengan diperkenalkannya menu-menu baru. Sebagai pembuka ada Market Ceviche yang menggunakan ikan segar hari itu serta penggunaan kunyit pada jus limaunya. Selain itu ada kreasi jenius berupa nangka dengan roti sourdough yang begitu manis dan rasa yang sangat bersahabat untuk orang Indonesia.

Pada menu utama, cumi panggang dengan sambal ijo serta baby potato krispi menjadi sebuah hidangan yang sangat menarik. Makan malam ditutup dengan hidangan memukau berupa iga yang dimasak perlahan selama enam jam dan dibumbui dengan saus tiram serta jamur shiitake. Seketika anda seperti makan Chinese food!

Mari berkunjung ke Attarine dan jangan lupa menyapa sang chef. Tanyakanlah rekomendasi Chef Jacob untuk hari itu dan bersantaplah bersama dengan teman maupun keluarga. Menikmati hidangan sang chef menjadi sebuah petualangan tersendiri yang tak terlupakan. Terakhir, jangan lupa juga untuk mencoba resep Market Ceviche, yang dipersembahkan khusus oleh sang chef sendiri.


Attarine Jakarta
Jl. Gunawarman No.11 A,
RT.6/RW.3, Selong, Kby. Baru,
Kota Jakarta Selatan, DKI Jakarta 12110
https://www.attarine.com/
0812-8602-6142


Original link:
http://www.passionmedia.co.id/b/surprises-that-awaits-you-at-attarine-

Images by: Dwi N. Hadi

Chef Woro Prabandari: Aspiring Beyond Loyalty (Passion, 2017)

There’s more to it than just loyalty from the prolific chef Woro Prabandari. For more than two decades now and a title of Executive Pastry Chef at Grand Hyatt Jakarta, the motherly chef shared PASSION the recipe for excellence in career and balancing it with family and pastime.

How did you find out about your passion with pastry?

I think it’s because at one point during my childhood, I started giving a hand to my mother when she’s in the kitchen. For some reason, I had always been keen with baking and we started by making the classic stuff. My mother used to cook for events at my father’s office, so that’s how I became accustomed with the know-hows in the kitchen and became serious at it.

How was the beginning of your love story with Hyatt?

After some time seeing myself really into cooking, my parents decided to enroll me to hospitality school and ever since day one I already focused myself with pastry. Before my graduation, I applied for internship at Hyatt and got accepted. As you can see, the rest is history.

Care to tell us a bit about your career here until you reach this height?

Initially I was assigned as part of the pre-opening team for Grand Hyatt Jakarta and received training at Hyatt Aryaduta. In the early nineties perhaps only a handful of five-star hotels can be found in Jakarta and expatriates were so many back then. However, seeing that only a few women were in professional pastry industry at that time, I decided to prove my mettle and spend the extra hours refining my skills.

I took the opportunity to train also whenever I can with fellow pastry chefs after hour, and the veterans. For example since the beginning of my career there’s Mr Gottfried Schützenberger, Hyatt international pastry legend, and one time I was also tutored by Pierre Hermé himself.

Chef Passion Media

What was the turning point of your career?

Professional competitions. Singapore was hosting 1992 Salon Culinaire and I volunteered to participate in the tournament with a small team. Working in the kitchen requires me at least 12 hours a day and we had to focus only with work. Only then after working hours, the team gathered to spend the extra time for planning and practicing. I usually got home late around midnight and had to be back at work again at 7am the next day!

Our sacrifice was not without reward. We won the gold medal for dessert platter category and I got promoted not long. Apparently the company appreciated the effort!

The following Salon Culinaire competitions were held in Jakarta and I participated again, until finally I was appointed as Pastry Chef back in 1998. Now I’m giving the rein to younger chefs and enjoy tutoring them for competitions.

What are your plans after you retire in the future?

There are so many offers asking me to teach. I’d really like do that in the future!

We heard that you like traveling. Tell us a bit about that.

Traveling is something that I do from time to time with the family. I take pleasure by dedicating myself for the company and rarely take a leave. That’s why I have so many days to spend for holiday!

Recently we went to Bali with the whole family – me, my husband, and our three sons. We prefer visiting beaches and of course, eating. Having a privilege as part of Hyatt family enables me to visit their properties everywhere in the world. Certainly going with the whole family is important to maintain the work-life balance.


Original link:
http://www.passionmedia.co.id/b/woro-prabandari-aspiring-beyond-loyalty

Images by: Dwi N. Hadi