Tag Archives: Peranakan

Street Food: Bubur Ayam Muara Pak Yunus

Bubur ayam. Satu makanan pagi kegemaran begitu banyak warga Indonesia. Cepat, murah, dan berisi; bubur ayam menjadi pilihan paling cocok untuk memulai pagi yang sibuk maupun santai.

Sekali-sekali bertandang ke Bandung tentu berburu bubur ayam seolah menjadi pencarian tiada berujung. Masih sulit memang untuk bisa menandingi rasa lezat yang sudah saya kenal sejak masa kuliah dahulu, yakni bubur ayam milik H. Amid di daerah Jalan Pajajaran.

Kesampingkan dahulu bubur ayam khas warga Tionghoa yang jelas-jelas paling terpuji soal rasa, namun untuk bubur khas warga pribumi ternyata masih belum terlalu banyak yang selalu terkenang.

Satu masa saya berkunjung ke wilayah kompleks Muara di pinggiran kota Bandung untuk menghadiri pernikahan. Tidak bisa berlama-lama dan tidak menyempatkan makan, akhirnya pilihan jatuh ke Bubur Ayam Muara milik Pak Yunus, sebuah kedai sederhana tepat di tepian sungai dan banyak dikunjungi warga sekitar.

Bubur Ayam Muara Pak Yunus

Secara penampilan bubur ayam milik Pak Yunus ini terlihat sangat berisi dan memang secara harga sedikit lebih tajam dibandingkan bubur kisaran rumah yang gemar berkeliling pagi dan sore. Secara rasa rupanya cukup memadai dan tentunya berisi.

Bila jujur ingin dibilang ini sederajat kenikmatannya dengan H. Amid tentu belum, tapi mungkin di lain waktu ketika di sini tersedia telur mentah serta cakwe raksasa, maka dapat dipastikan bubur ayam satu ini menjadi favorit kedua atau ketiga saya di Bandung.

Jom jangan lupa berkunjung bila tengah melipir ke sisi jauh Bandung yang satu ini, saudara saudari.

Unsuitable for vegetarians

Jalan Muara Sari V, Bandung – Indonesia (tepat di perempatan)

Jam buka: Khusus makan pagi menuju siang

OPEN: Teras Dharmawangsa (FoodieS & Qubicle, Apr 2016)

From the successful hospitality group Plataran here comes the Teras Dharmawangsa, a haven for quality comfort food housed at the prestigious Dharmawangsa Square.

Teras Dharmawangsa 4

There’s a brief respite for Jakartans who are traveling from the busy business districts on the city central to the lively southern part of Jakarta or vice versa, as they encounter the neighborhoods of Dharmawangsa and Panglima Polim. Verdant and laid back, this vicinity also bestows the passersby with the all strategic shopping arcade of Dharmawangsa Square.

Teras Dharmawangsa 1

As the latest tenant in the arcade, Teras Dharmawangsa appears very casual and welcoming. Still considered very recent since its opening date, the restaurant has already enjoyed considerable success. Dining hours see this establishment always at full house with patrons such as families and professionals.

While simplicity may be the façade of how Teras Dharmawangsa presents itself, however, everything was conjured very elaborately.

Teras Dharmawangsa 6

Firstly, the restaurant occupies vertically adjacent spaces up to the fourth floor. Hence, it caters not just walk-in customers numbering dozens at the same time on the first and second floor, but also groups in a more private area on the remaining floors. Making it easy for the patrons and the service, Teras Dharmawangsa also provides its own elevator.

Teras Dharmawangsa 3

The menu is all about the local identity fuses familiarly with Chinese flavors. The lineup is starting from appetizers such as the crispy fried enoki, youtiao (Chinese cruller), or soups such as tom yum, rawon, and sop buntut. Heading to a more familiar terrain on main courses are the several styles of fried rice, chicken and duck dishes, and noodles from pad thai, kwetiau, and the shop’s signature – the duck noodles.

Teras Dharmawangsa 5

In addition to offerings from beef and seafood, Teras Dharmawangsa also provides excellent sidekicks such as the string beans with chicken and eggs, kangkung belacan, bean sprouts with salted fish, tahu telor, and many more with quality and at a very reasonable price.

TERAS DHARMAWANGSA | Dharmawangsa Square, Jalan Dharmawangsa VI no. 38, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2751 3687 | www.plataran.com

Opening hours: Daily, 8am – 9pm

Featured in FoodieS Apr 2016 issue and Qubicle:

Photography: Rian Farisa & Courtesy of Teras Dharmawangsa

Quikskoop™: Ya Kun Kaya Toast – Singapore

Ya Kun Kaya Toast is everywhere in Singapore. As one of the oldest, they have even expanding themselves in other Asian countries, including Indonesia as well. One time, I enjoyed my brunch having the kaya toast and a cup of hot black coffee back in Bandung.

But how does it feel to have it at the origin country itself? It’s an experience that I have to try myself.

Staying at AMOY on Telok Ayer Street during my last visit to Singapore was a great experience. Not only that I witnessed firsthand at how the old heritage can live side by side peacefully with the modern Singapore, but I got to stay at an extremely pleasant hotel with a rich selections of food around the neighborhood.

Ya Kun Kaya Toast at 18 China Street is the first one that started it all. As the jewel of the Lau Pa Sat region here, people are flocking since early morning for breakfast and even in weekends. China Street itself lies in the heart of Singapore’s CBD and it is quite surprising to find a lot of people around on holiday.

We were seated and service was quick and helpful. Courtesy is not to be expected – which typically a Singaporean character, but if your breakfast come in early and right, you won’t have any complaints about that.

Due to the speedy nature of everything, breakfast was confined only to two set menus – it’s either kaya toast or French toast with coffee/tea and soft boiled eggs. Perhaps the menu will be more complete in the afternoon or night, but then again, due to so many people around, it was arguably the management decision to limit the menu.

Kaya toast
French toast
French toast

For a very affordable breakfast like this and quite fulfilling apparently, I was thoroughly pleased. It’s good to actually eat in a pleasant surroundings, swift service, and quite hearty (for an Indonesian like me who prefers bubur ayam or nasi uduk in the morning).

The eggs were good with a bit of soy sauce and peppers and the milk coffee worked just right. The bread was perfectly toasted, crisp, and works really nicely with the butter and the kaya spread. I decided to bring back a bottle, but from Mustafa apparently. However, thanks to Ya Kun for the motivation!

It’s another good round of kaya toast breakfast like last time when I visited Tong Ah in Chinatown. I think I can enjoy more of breakfast like this, setting aside rice once in a while.


Suitable for vegetarians


Taking It To The Streets: Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (The Foodie Magazine, Jul 2015)

Fifty years in the business and keeps on going strong, Pak Misjaya was more than welcome to share The Foodie Magazine about how his nasi ulam captivates the hearts of many with originality and honesty.

Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (2)

Nearly fifty years ago, as an adolescent teenager and like many Indonesians who were tempted to make a fortune in the capital city, Pak Misjaya jumped in on a train heading to Jakarta with only the clothes he’s wearing that time and not a single dime in his hands.

“We knew we had to survive since day one and by the time I jumped off around Angke, I had to find work immediately”, says Pak Misjaya starting the story of his life.

“That time people would ask, ‘Are you an honest person?’, and I would say yes of course. It was a point of no return for me and even before sending me out, my father said to me that I have to be an honest person no matter what. That has been my original intention even before heading to Jakarta”, he continues.

His early days in Jakarta was spent on helping out a carpentry business with no payment at all. “That time what matters most is that I can eat to live the day. I could not ask for more”, says Pak Misjaya reminiscing.

Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (6)

Not long, the fateful encounter arrives. The young Pak Misjaya during his walk around the Glodok area met an elderly Chinese who lifts his merchandise around, selling nasi ulam. Interested at what he’s doing and having the intention to help the man, he immediately offered his help.

“At first he declined my offer but seeing that I really wanted to help, he decided to make me his apprentice”, he says.

Empek Lam Seng, the nasi ulam business owner, was a spartan teacher and also a father figure for him during his early years in Jakarta. Although he was initially only paid with meals and with all that hardship he had gone through to help him, Pak Misjaya’s eyes were brimming with spirit and his tone gave away such spirit whenever he tells us the story about Lam Seng. It was destiny, the day when Pak Misjaya encounters him and he relishes that day even until this very moment.

Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (5)

“One time he wanted me to grind the seasonings finely and did not stop me even it was already three hours. After I reported back to him, he said he was just testing me and laughed at me. Sialan!”, exclaims Pak Misjaya remembering that moment.

Even until this day, he still keeps the practice of grinding the seasonings manually by hand. “A practice that makes the flavor of my nasi ulam different than the rest”, he adds.

One day due to his old age, Lam Seng made a decision to inherit the business to Pak Misjaya. He financed Pak Misjaya with two baskets for his merchandise. At that time, hawkers pushcart was still uncommon and also expensive. With the baskets, hawkers had to lift their heavy merchandises around the neighborhood to sell it. Other than that, Pak Misjaya was also provided some capital to start and a place to live.

Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (3)

“Just a week after that, he passed away and I was utterly crushed and saddened. How could such generous old man who taught me so much left us all so abruptly? I was forever indebted to his kindness”, tells Pak Misjaya. Even after all these years, you can still sense his grief.

Not long after that, Indonesia was in the verge of communist revolution. It was the years of living dangerously, but for Pak Misjaya, he was ready for the risks. His father had told him to exercise caution and not playing sides as he believed something big will happen soon.

“You cannot leave your baskets unattended or otherwise there will be someone who planted a weapon there. There’s no telling what will happen when you get caught by the security forces”, remembers Pak Misjaya. Long story short, he came out in one piece after those turbulent times.

Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (4)

Years later Pak Misjaya became closer to the community and became the most wanted person for his delicious nasi ulam by everyone in the neighborhood.

“We all live harmoniously here. I had been allowed to sell my nasi ulam in front of this temple here for many years. Some customers have also been very supportive and because of them I can save up some money to buy a good pushcart.”

However, his success came not without a challenge. For years the competition has been fierce, but with a single pushcart and a fifty-year-old of heritage recipe in his hands, Pak Misjaya has been entrusted to cater the needs for big companies while also invited to participate in local and international food exhibitions.

While the original recipe came from Betawi tradition, it turns out that his version was rather unique. The complete offering of Pak Misjaya’s nasi ulam consists of rice topped with stewed tofu, tempeh, potato, and hard-boiled egg; a slice of omelette; potato fritter; chopped salty cuttlefish; traditional beef jerky; and two kinds of crackers.

Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya (1)

“Everything came from my old man’s recipe and especially, the use of beef jerky is that one clear-cut than the usual nasi ulam. On top of that, without proper seasoning and correct techniques in frying it, you won’t get a good beef jerky”, adds Pak Misjaya.

I was left astonished. Even though with such extensive offerings like that, I can’t stop digging the nasi ulam. The silky sweet stew broth was the key to the harmony and the rest of the toppings shine with their distinct characters. The beef jerky was well seasoned, sweet, and juicy. His nasi ulam is unlike what I ever tasted anywhere else. Out of this world!

From Pak Misjaya we learned that despite the duress came from challenges or the uneasy times that we had to go through, it is paramount to be always committed with hardworking ethics and honesty. The effort to preserve the recipe and customers are also no less important. Fifty years is no mere number, it is an achievement where only some are up for it.

Pak Misjaya is one of them.


Suitable for vegetarians

Jalan Kemenangan III (in front of Toasebio temple), Jakarta – Indonesia

Opening hours:
Daily, 4pm – 10pm

Spend: IDR 25,000 – IDR 50,000 / portion


Featured in THE FOODIE MAGAZINE Jul 2015 edition

Download it for free here via SCOOP!

Photography by Dennie Ramon

Fun Food Facts #10

Fun Food Facts #10:


Video credit: the little dröm store