Tag Archives: Chocolatier

Pipiltin Cocoa: Introducing Indonesia’s Cocoa, One Chocolate at a Time (mise en place, Vol 15 – 2016)

Living in a bubble may give you comfort and security, but for Tissa Aunilla even during her days as a successful lawyer, she had already given thought that there must be another way to fully realize her real aspirations.

Years of fondness with confectioneries brought her to a decision that she should learn more about chocolate. “I even tore down some parts of my home to make space for the equipments and bought a marble surface”, she says.

With the support of her brother Irvan Helmi who has been very successful with Anomali Coffee, Tissa dedicated herself to train under professional chocolatiers and even one time enrolling to Felchlin in Switzerland for an intensive two-week program there after fulfilling the prerequisite skills needed for the acceptance.

Several years of improving her skills in chocolate making and intense research on the business, Pipiltin Cocoa opened its doors in 2013. “Despite being the world’s third largest producer of chocolate, the level of consumption is still considerably much lower here than the Western countries. That’s the challenge since the beginning”, says Tissa full of determination.

As of today, in addition to increasing Pipiltin’s presence in Jakarta’s dining scene, the company has also been collaborating with several single-origin chocolate farmers from Aceh, Java, and as far to Bali and Flores as well. Exporters from abroad have taken a lot of interest of Pipiltin Cocoa after Tissa’s campaign abroad to introduce Indonesian chocolate.

“We are running a strict standardization so that our producers will supply us with fermented beans with specific humidity level and other conditions as well. With single origins, there are issues of logistics as well in cases such as delayed harvest due to force majeure. We always take care of this very precisely so that we won’t let down our customers and importers”, she explains.

With its bean-to-bar concept, Pipiltin Cocoa is still among the very few found in Indonesia and is so far challenged by the unfamiliar yet curious Indonesians who would love to try new things about food. One way to solve this, says Tissa, is to teach them about chocolate and that’s starting from the sensory test. It’s an investment of its own to bring more people into fold with chocolate appreciation, but apparently there are more surprises that she has prepared for everyone.

“At our new chocolate factory on Jalan Barito, it will be like a museum where people could tour around the facility, attending cooking classes, observing how chocolate is being made, and many other activities. The parking space will be huge so that it can cater buses and more visitors”, explains Tissa.

This is talking about the long term goals on how to create more demand and how to entice Indonesians to consume more chocolate. Unlike coffee as its more successful sibling, chocolate and tea, while produced in great numbers in the country, are still in need to be promoted on every level.

In a smaller scope, Pipiltin Cocoa’s interesting lineup on the menu is certainly worth the experience especially for dessert lovers. From plated desserts that utilize molecular gastronomic techniques, Pipiltin introduces the application of cakes and pastry to get along with its chocolate creations.

With the dessert appreciation scene on the rise for several years now in Jakarta, Pipiltin Cocoa’s is not only riding the wave of this momentum but also introduces a lineup of savory dishes. From finger foods to salad, from poultry to oxtail, and from pasta to sandwich or burger; everything was evenly designed to match the vast lineup of the desserts. Additionally to cater everyone’s needs, Pipiltin Cocoa’s is also not short on options with chocolate-based beverages.

To sum it all up, a complete lineup like this is deemed necessary so that people would be enticed to try something new from time to time. For Pipiltin Cocoa, an evolving dessert menu related to chocolate is a must and that is to complement also its sell of chocolate bars, chocolate nibs, and countless other creations that Jakartans may never seen before or even thought possible that it all actually came from Indonesian chocolate.


PIPILTIN COCOA

Address:

  • Sarinah Building Ground Floor, Jalan MH Thamrin no. 11, Jakarta – Indonesia
  • Jalan Barito II no. 5, Jakarta – Indonesia

Link: http://miseenplaceasia.com/pipiltin-cocoa-introducing-indonesias-cocoa-one-chocolate-at-a-time/

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Pantry 101: Know Your Chocolate (The Foodie Magazine, Apr 2014)

Chocolate is not all about common store bought bars that we usually eat. Chocolate is also applied for cooking and baking. We present you with the various types of chocolate and their characteristics which appear in our daily consumption of this most luscious and well-loved ingredient.

The US FDA and the European Union both have specific definitions of the types of chocolate, with their corresponding compositions. But these can be very confusing for the uninitiated.

Let’s define some terms first:

BASIC TERMS

  • CACAO
    This is the cacao bean, right out of the cacao pod, it is fermented and dried, then it is either sold raw or roasted without the shell. Whole cacao is the whole bean, cacao nibs are crunched up pieces of bean, and ground cacao is powdered. This is the barest and healthiest form of chocolate, cacao can sometimes be quite bitter but already has the same chocolate aroma.
  • CHOCOLATE LIQUOR
    This is the basis of all types of chocolate, formed by grinding cacao beans into a smooth, liquid paste. Nothing is added, and it does not contain alcohol, despite the name. It naturally contains about 53% cocoa butter (fat).
  • COCOA BUTTER
    Also called theobroma oil, this is a pale yellow, edible vegetable fat extracted from the cocoa bean. It is used to make chocolate. Cocoa butter has the same flavor and aroma as cacao. Cocoa butter is are fermented, roasted, and then separated from their hulls or shells. About 54–58% of the residue is cocoa butter. Chocolate liquor is pressed to separate the cocoa butter from the cocoa solids.
  • COCOA POWDER
    Made by pressing the chocolate liquor, the cocoa butter will then be partially separated and left to harden. The solids, or usually called ‘press cake’, is then ground and becomes dry cocoa powder. Light brown in color and possessing a strong chocolate flavor, the cocoa powder becomes the base for cakes, cookies, brownies, and confections when added with sugar.

And now, let’s jump to the luscious stuff that we all know so much!

UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE
Dark chocolate is made up of at least 35% cocoa solids, other brands may even have a high of 70% to 99% of cocoa content, with fat and sugar making up the remainder of the content. For certain dark chocolates, milk is also added to soften the texture but only up to around 12% of the content.

The different ratios of cocoa butter and other elements will further classify dark chocolate into several types such as sweet, semisweet, bittersweet, and ‘couverture’. Semisweet chocolate contains 40% – 62% of cocoa solids and is frequently used for cakes, cookies, and brownies, but if more sugar is added then it is classified into sweet chocolate.

Meanwhile, the bittersweet chocolate has less sugar and more liquor than its semisweet counterpart. Good bittersweet chocolate is what that classified as having 60% – 85% of cocoa solids depending on the brand.

DARK CHOCOLATE
Milk chocolate usually contains at least 10% of chocolate liquor, this type of chocolate also contains cocoa butter and sugar in varying amount in addition to at least 3.39% of fat and 12% of milk in a form of dry milk solids, cream, or condensed milk.

Originally it is much sweeter than dark chocolate, lighter in color, and has less chocolate-y taste although the latest trend shows us that chocolate producers are now putting more than the minimum amount of chocolate liquor, making it possess stronger chocolate taste and less sweetness.

Milk chocolate is mostly consumed directly or made into cookies because of its difficulty to be tempered properly and its proneness to overheating.

MILK CHOCOLATE
White chocolate is not technically one of the types of chocolate because it does not contain any chocolate liquor. White chocolate does not contain any non-fat ingredients from the cacao bean, making it possess an off-white color. It must contain at least 20% cocoa butter and 14% milk solids, 3.5% milk fat, and not more than 55% of sweeteners alongside lecithin, vanilla, or other flavorings. Its mild and pleasant flavor makes it a star ingredient for making panna cotta, mousse, or can be eaten directly.

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Click to download this article

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Featured in THE FOODIE MAGAZINE April 2014 edition

Download it for free here via SCOOP!

Stuff of Legends: Ermey Trisniarty – La Femme Chocolat (The Foodie Magazine, Apr 2014)

Luck may not be the right word for Ermey Trisniarty, co-owner of Dapur Cokelat. As the main person behind most of the creations of the famous chocolate store, it is a testament to her great ideas and hard work. Let’s hear her recipe for success.

Back in 2001, there was once this modest chocolate shop that just started to pave its way as the pioneer of praline-for-everyone in Jakarta. That time, pralines were not well-known to Jakartans except for those who frequented certain five-star hotels and one or two boutique chocolaterie.

Dapur Cokelat 1

Within thirteen years, Dapur Cokelat has managed to set its foot firmly in Jakarta, Makassar, and Surabaya with around a dozen outlets. Many may not recognize that the success was made from a combination of talent and determination of the owners. Ermey Trisniarty – who happens to be the mastermind behind all those good looking cakes and chocolates at Dapur Coklat, met us recently and reveals how it all started.

The determined one

Born from a family of food lovers and home bakers, Ermey quickly rose to prominence as the talented one when she was entrusted to assist the family’s home business at a very tender age. “I remember helping my mom selling iced cake when I was a kid”, she reminisced. Even only at home scale, her mom’s business had been well-known by notable people, especially those who came from Makassar – the city where her family was originally from.

As a teen, Ermey decided to discover more of her talents with pastry as she headed for Bandung to study at NHI, the country’s most prominent tourism school. “It was intense back in NHI as I had all the trainings theoretically and by practice, day in and day out”, she confessed and later admits that it was ultimately one of the highlights that brought her to closer to success.

Dapur Cokelat 2

Back then, the theses of NHI students were examined by professional foreign chefs from five-star establishments in Jakarta and her work caught the attention of a master chocolatier, Dieter Speer, and she was immediately inducted to work at Mercantile Executive Club. “Several years there were such an enjoyable time as I learned a lot by just working with the chefs, but soon I realized that what I was aiming for was to continue my study after all”, said Ermey.

Even though she was bestowed with the privilege to fuel her passion since very early while many people usually found their calling at a later stage in their lives, struggle remains the keyword that made her an achiever. She decided to resign from Mercantile and continued her studies at the Bogor Institute of Agriculture by specializing in agribusiness much to the amazements of many.

“My friends questioned my decision about this choice, but somehow I can relate agribusiness to what I had gone through and found it beneficial nonetheless”, she said defending her choice and continued,  “Resigning from Mercantile left me with a lot of free time before heading to college in the evening. That’s where I decided to find myself a full-time job”.

For her nine-to-five work, she joined the ranks of the editorial team of Sedap, a distinguished local magazine featuring cooking tips and recipes. “At Sedap, not only did I write, I also helped the clients to devise recipes and did also a lot of food styling,” said Ermey recalling her time there and describing how her previous job benefitted her a lot in this line of work. At the end of the day, she rushed back to Bogor for her studies almost every single day.

The advent of Dapur Cokelat

During her days in Bogor, she met her future husband and co-owner of Dapur Cokelat, Okky Dewanto, by a recommendation from her landlady who suggested that she should meet the brains behind Bogor’s famed apple pie shop. Impressed by Ermey’s skills in pastry and her passion, Okky suggested that she open up her own chocolate shop and he was more than ready to become her partner for it.

“Okky is a seasoned man in the F&B business with an amazing portfolio. His shrewdness convinced me to start Dapur Cokelat and in 2001, we built our first ever outlet at Jalan Ahmad Dahlan,”she said recollecting how it all started.

Dapur Cokelat 3

It wasn’t easy at first as Ermey had to brace herself to maintain the business with her remaining savings and even that time, they were still unable to finish decorating the store. “We were lucky that I had always been a collector of mugs and we finished our decorations using that. That’s how we did it modestly with Toko Cokelat, before it was finally known with Dapur Cokelat,” as she reminisced their early struggles.

Their business was finally having the big break thanks their continuous hard work and boosted also by a weekend article from
Kompas. “All of a sudden after the article was published, people were simply flocking to our store and more and more people came each and every day!” exclaimed Ermey clearly remembering how exciting it all was some 13 years ago.

“I always tell people that starting a business is easy, but to maintain it, now that’s the real challenge!” At this stage, the most challenging thing to do for Dapur Cokelat is to always stand up and be ready for competition. For that, Dapur Cokelat has to always come up with fresh creations and in terms of leadership, her way of treating the employees as a part of her family is also a way to be successful.

As you can see, through all these hardships Dapur Cokelat has become a huge success and it all started from Ermey’s home kitchen where she assisted her mom daily to bake cakes and traditional delicacies. Who would have guessed? I guess only those who believe and are willing to work hard to make their dreams happen would.

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DAPUR COKELAT
Outlets in Jakarta, Surabaya, and Makassar
www.dapurcokelat.com
Twitter: @dapurcokelat

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Featured in THE FOODIE MAGAZINE April 2014 edition

Download it for free here via SCOOP!

Photos by: Dennie Benedict

‘All About Belgian Chocolate’ Workshop with Le Chocolatier, Laurent Bernard

Emilie was designated as the host for bloggers workshop held by Prisma PR on August 4, 2010. The show ran by the chocolate/pastry expert Chef Laurent Bernard and he’s to show his might in creating the original Belgian chocolate and tell the audience everything about it. Why at Emilie? Because Emilie proved to be the best place for the workshop since it owns a special kitchen designed solely for cooking class on the 2nd at Le Bar.

Before that upon arrival at the scene, the bloggers were served with French dejeuner menu consisting of Le Caesar Salade, Le Poulet, and Le Profiteroles. Lovely designed dishes created by the prodigy Chef de Cuisine Ivan Duchene seemed to be more than enough introduction of Emilie’s presence within the small population of French bistro in Jakarta. In a separate post, I took the liberty to do a bit restaurant review on Emilie.

I also encountered several media people such as Mr. Burhan Abe, an editor-at-large with many years of experience in several big Indonesian media and Ms. Rahmayanti, an Indonesian traveling journalist based in Japan. This chance meeting proved to be a fruitful experience where Mr. Abe turns out to be an ex editor-in-chief of a certain food magazine Appetite Journey and currently a contributor for The Jakarta Post. He now owns a creative syndication site called Vox Populi. While Ms. Rahmayanti accompanied by her Canon Rebel camera, travels here and there between Indonesia and Japan sharing her life as an Indonesian who lives in a foreign country.

About the guest star, Chef Laurent Bernard hailed from France and after many years of experience being a pastry chef and chocolatier all over the world, he anchored in Singapore to establish The Chocolate Factory which he renamed into Laurent’s Café & Chocolate Bar. The very manifestation of his body and soul passion, in Laurent’s Café & Chocolate Bar he dedicates his two decades of immense expertise in chocolate to create delicious and delicate confectionaries.

The workshop started with the video presentation about the history of chocolate, how and who originally brought it to Europe, how nowadays chocolate brought from the plantations, and the basic processes before the final shipment to be created into the chocolate we know and consume nowadays. Afterwards, introductions made and now Indonesia ready to witness the skills of Mr. Bernard had inside his sleeves. He was at that time assisted by Karen Carlotta, an Indonesian rising star pastry chef stationed mainly in Singapore.

He began by explaining about tempering the chocolate. This is an exact procedure where a chocolatier should rise and lower the temperature of the melted chocolate in several phases. Mr. Bernard prefers to rise it first to 40 degrees Centigrade then lowers it to 28 degrees and finally to 31 degrees. Other chocolatiers may have their own preferences in temperature. That sounds simple but the procedure’s a bit complex than that and it is imperative to own a temperature measurer device in order to know exactly when to rise and to lower the melted chocolate. Rising the chocolate temperature would not be trivial but to lower it actually requires a certain low temperature room so that the chocolate will get cold ideally. Instead Mr. Bernard used the fridge to lower the temperature, but he didn’t recommend it at all saying that keeping it in a fridge can make the chocolate moist due to the matter of low humidity. Since it’s for quick class presentation sake, he had to do so.

Before Mr. Bernard successfully returning the chocolate to 31 degrees by pouring it over the marble table and mixing it, Ms. Carlotta quickly prepares the chocolate mold and Mr. Bernard pour the melted chocolate into it over several times. Solidifying it with the special hammer and finally using the fridge again to freeze the chocolate a bit. Afterwards Ms. Carlotta helps him to prepare the fillings for the chocolate.

Next, the chocolate which Mr. Bernard currently refrigerate will be filled with praline and ganache. Praline here is a filling made of mixture between chocolate, nut, and sometimes added dried fruits. While ganache is a mixture of chocolate and milk/cream. He can’t help but notice that people usually misinterpret the meaning of praline with any small chocolates other than chocolate bars they encounter. Praline is only a filling and doesn’t represent the whole chocolate. It’s just a flavor in a sense, it’s like your daily milk flavored with chocolate, strawberry, or mocha.

After reaching the desired temperature from the fridge, Mr. Bernard filled the chocolate with praline and then ganache in the next round. Then he showered again the gaps with the 31 degrees chocolate, hammered it to ensure the fullness, and then refrigerating it again. Seems quite difficult and it’s easier to just buy your usual box of chocolates at your favorite stores right? But if you know the whole process then we might appreciate a bit about the effort.

Later, using the rest of the unused chocolate, he also demonstrated of how to create a good ol’ hot chocolate. What made the hot chocolate interesting was that he had added a small scoop of vanilla ice cream into the base of the glass and after the glass filled, he topped it with a fresh cream and thin almonds.

The testing time has arrived at last! Each and every one of the bloggers expressed a joyful mirth when they savor Mr. Bernard’s creations. The chocolate was so fragrant and inviting. When you bite, it crumbles elegantly. Next all you gotta do is to experience the harmony between the filling and the chocolate. The praline chocolate was divine and tasty, not fully mild because you can feel the texture of the nuts there which was either hazelnuts or almond. Not to mention also the ganache. The proportional balance between the chocolate and milk created this perfect mildness and sweetness. Enjoy it with a glass of warm water and Mr. Bernard assured that every elements inside the chocolate will get rejuvenated somehow and you’ll feel the maximum taste of it.

This new concoction of hot chocolate was also interesting and taste really good. Sometimes you might get bored of your usual hot chocolate. Try to add the ice cream, topped it with whipped cream and almonds. Next, you’ll see the difference. I can safely say now that whenever you come to Singapore, don’t forget to visit Laurent’s Café & Chocolate Bar. Good job you did for us in Indonesia, Monsieur Bernard!

Now after he introduced and shared the beauty of Belgian chocolate, being the country that produced finest chocolates in the world, to Indonesia. Whether one day he wish to also compete in growing local chocolatier industry or not. The idea about opening one here will be most anticipated by any bubbling foodie and chocolate lovers in Indonesia. I love chocolate, do you?

Restaurant Review: Toko Coklat

At long last, a post about something from my hometown!

Well, it appears that, since I have taken a long absence from adventuring around my neighbourhood, my sister took the liberty to scout out a bit and share another fresh info about a new place. It’s been awhile since my eagle eyes have been put into a good use and on my behalf my sis has become a good ranger for this sort of thing.

The neighborhood around this place was quite nice. Full of trees and despite the closeness to the central attention of factory outlets around Jalan Riau, this place was still as calm as before although might be a bit packed around the corner where Jonas Photo resides. Toko Coklat held a ground at the intersection between Jalan Progo and Jalan Cimanuk and the other road that leads to Jalan Riau again. So that actually offers a vantage point to attract passersby which ultimately can’t help by noticing it and one of them would’ve been my sister I assumed.

Okay, so in one sunny afternoon after taking my family some time off and a good lunch, it was decided that we should have a some sort of ‘coffee break’ in a chocolate bar. I see why not and once we arrived, seemed for me, the place was quite nice. Modern architecture, with plenty of windows and open air to keep it fresh and full of light. But alas, actually there were many spaces for comfortable seats inside, the owner prefer to furnish the cafe only by cheap furnitures. The kind you would mostly encounter in food courts of trade centers or mediocre malls. Quite a shame actually.

For a small choco bar, Toko Coklat actually offers a wide selections of small chocolates price-tagged at IDR 3,500 each. Indulge yourself with the rich Jamaica Liquor, Coffee, Mocha, or Vanilla Cream and many others. The counter dressed beautifully also with animal-shaped chocolates which can be wrapped as a gift, also you can find cakes like Rolls, Mousse, Tiramisu and friends. You can also pick salty light snacks like Croquettes or Macaroni and even heavier ones like Spaghetti. Well after all, since I had my lunch before, I only picked myself a cup of Hot Chocolate and some chocolates. Though there were also coffee with all its varieties, but that time I chose the very substance related with the theme of the place and even the name of the place, Toko Coklat!

Hot Chocolate
Vanilla Cream & Mocha Chocolates

Since I lost the bill and I haven’t renewed my visit there, I concluded that everything that was there definitely not expensive. For instance, you can have a cup of coffee or chocolate only at a price range between IDR 10,000 to 15,000. As I mentioned before, the chocolate costs only IDR 3,500 and believe me, consume at most 2 and you’d probably had enough for the day.

I can guarantee the taste, the intensity of the sweetness was quite considerable but not at an exaggerating level whilst filled with creams of many sorts notably like mocha, caramel, or vanilla but that didn’t make the chocolate even too sweet and inedible, on the other hand it made the taste complete, whole, or anything you can name. Well, then again, I haven’t had the chance to taste all of it but I do recommend the place.

Apart from the fact that it’s not a place to hang out for a good deal amount of time (thanks to the not-so-cozy furnitures), you can visit here some times, pick some animal-shaped chocolates or box filled with small chocolates for your loved ones in substitute for pricy things, make it special this time and you can enjoy seeing their happy faces. Might as well come to this place, yet again I mention it, Toko Coklat.

The Judgment (based on scale of 10 score plus the comments):

1. PRICE (8/10)

A very wallet friendly place for a sinful indulgence!

2. INTERIOR (6/10)

The place wrapped in lights and adopted minimalist sytle interior. Though it can be furnished further to make it even better. Toko Coklat still has plenty of rooms to improve and it really should.

3. SERVICE (5/10)

Just fine.

4. TASTE (6/10)

For good chocolates, you can pick this place. Though I might not yet recommend the rest. You should try it by yourself first, unless you wait for my updates. ^^

5. OVERALL (6.25/10)

Additional Information:

Location : Jl. Cimanuk no. 5, Bandung