A colorful array of Sundanese fare presented all at once can be more festive than even the most complete warteg dishes or any given Padang restaurant. Last year we had the chance to visit Ma’ Uneh. Now, Abah Barna’s Nasi Bancakan is our new Sundanese envoy.
Visiting Nasi Bancakan in Bandung gives you at least three perks as a foodie. Firstly, it’s a one stop place for everything Sundanese. Secondly, it’s rare to actually find affordable Sundanese food in big cities nowadays but not here. Last but not least, you are helping to fulfill Abah Barna’s dream to preserve the true and rustic Sundanese cuisine.
The latter may sound so ideological but when you relate it with the first two reasons of why you should dine there, you will understand that Sundanese cuisine is actually in need of a revolutionary rejuvenation attempt to make its presence significant again and appealing for people of every age.
Long standing restaurants of old, warung makan, and modern concept Sundanese are all but less appealing than international franchises in Indonesian big cities nowadays. The call for preservation of our traditional cuisines is now stronger than ever with the initiatives of influential F&B people up to the governmental level.
However, to make it sound simpler from the business point-of-view only, Abah Barna’s intuition was more than right when you see the success of Nasi Bancakan and his honest vision to reintroduce again the old recipes.
Even though Abah Barna’s restaurant appears unadorned, the customers’ attention will soon be drawn by the charms of his Sundanese offering instead. At times, you will see Abah Barna himself taking care of several stations at once – from overseeing the grilled and steamed fish to serving the traditional es goyobod. Other than that, he will sit back, relax, smiling to everyone, and ready to tend the needs of his customers.
On the left side, you will find among the best of what Sundanese cuisine has to offer. From the Sundanese version of nasi liwet, fried chicken, gepuk (seasoned and fried pounded beef), tripe, gizzard, beef floss, ulukutek leunca (nightshade with oncom), tutut (paddy field mollusks), and seafood are presented vibrantly. What to follow next would be the usual additions of fried tofu, tempe, lalapan, and the all you can have sambals.
Curious with the steamed food here? The pepes station offers various choices ranging from ikan peda, tilapia, tofu, mushroom, and more. Don’t forget the crispy fried jambal as the ultimate addition for your lunch.
The sole purpose to introduce Sundanese cuisine wholesomely is made complete by the presence of traditional desserts. From es goyobod to es puter, be sure to try the unique kue balok also as the accompaniment for your tea or coffee.
Quite similar in form with kue pukis but only a bit thicker, kue balok uses the cast iron pan as well. The real difference came from the use of additional hot bucket of coal to bake the upper side of it, rather than turning it upside down at times to make it cooked evenly. By using this technique, kue balok becomes multi-textured – crisp on the outer, mild and fulfilling on the inside.
Again, what’s best coming from this street food restaurant is also the quality that surpasses the price. With this, Nasi Bancakan will continue to become the talk of the town and also by the tourists from out of Bandung with its honest presentation of its food.
Some dishes are suitable for vegetarians
Jalan Trunojoyo no. 62, Bandung – Indonesia
Daily, 10am – 10pm
Spend: IDR 15,000 – IDR 25,000 / person
Featured in THE FOODIE MAGAZINE Aug 2015 edition
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