As the continuation of Ibu Biko’s Gorontalese dishes on the previous post, I would like to also share the recipes that she cooked specially for us during the photo shoot. I hope you can try this back at home too. Have fun!
BINTHE BILUHUTA (Gorontalese corn soup)
5 pcs Corns, sliced off from the cob
¼ pc Coconut, grated
As you like Shrimps, peeled (or fresh skipjack tuna)
10 pcs Bird-eye chili
3 pcs Shallot
To taste Salt To taste Lime Scallion, chopped
Boil water inside a casserole pot.
Once boiled, cook the corns and the shrimps.
Put in the grated coconut and lastly, some of the condiments (chilies, shallots, lemon basils, scallions).
Once cooked, serve on individual bowl and serve also the condiments – to be added in the soup as you like it.
Recipe is provided by Omar Niode Foundation and Biko Mointi Boekoesoe – owner of Talaga Cookery.
TALAGA COOKERY | Jalan Kalibata Utara no. 25, RT 11/RW 2, Jakarta – Indonesia | +62.21.797.2246
It would be a shame to not include the more exotic side of the uber-rich Indonesian cuisine in this issue and The Foodie Magazine crews couldn’t get happier than this when they stumbled upon a lady who excels in Gorontalese cuisine from the northern part of Celebes.
The small province of Gorontalo was just inaugurated not more than 15 years ago and used to be known as the western part of Northern Sulawesi province before. With the population of around 1 million people, and it is said that the migrants to Java’s provinces are numbering higher than that, the Gorontalo province’s potentials are relatively unheard of – if compared to its famous neighbors in Sulawesi island.
Thanks to these spirited Gorontalese migrants, the province now receives more coverage in media within the last few years. Not only for its natural tourism spots, Gorontalo becomes known for its culinary potentials as well.
Quite recently, we encountered Mrs Biko Mointi Boekoesoe, the owner of Talaga Cookery catering service in Jakarta and she’s more than willing to show us the secrets of Gorontalese cuisine through three dishes in this very article.
Initially during her first move to Jakarta decades ago, Mrs Biko had not yet determined herself to learn more of her native cuisine if it wasn’t for her mother.
“I decided at one point to continue the legacy of my mother’s”, said Mrs Biko. Currently, she’s busy promoting Gorontalese cuisine in several occasions, while also maintaining her catering service – ranging from mainstream Indonesian dishes, desserts, and of course, her native cuisine.
Curious, we immediately taste her dishes and we were more than happy to put a new entry to our culinary dictionary upon this rare experience. The fish, the eggplants, and the corn soup were particularly interesting and while not included in the recipe here, we also got the privilege to enjoy Gorontalese dessert called TobuU.
“Hopefully one day I could open my own restaurant specializing in Gorontalese cuisine, which is currently nonexistent in Jakarta”, Mrs Biko told us of her dreams.
It would be great if one day the Gorontalese cuisine receives the same stature like the already known cuisines such as its neighbors – Manadonese and Makassarese. With Mrs Biko as the pioneer, it is probably only a matter of time.
Special thanks for Omar Niode Foundation and Pantry Magic who supported the photo shoot for this article.
TALAGA COOKERY Jalan Kalibata Utara no. 25, RT 11/RW 2, Jakarta – Indonesia
Describing how rich Indonesian cuisine is will not complete if you forgot to mention the country’s much-loved bubur ayam. Hotel Indonesia Kempinski has a story about how bubur ayam can become so influential in this five-star hotel for so many decades.
Bubur ayam becomes the staple food for Indonesians since time immemorial. Most likely it was introduced by the Chinese immigrants eons ago and that can be seen obviously from the condiments.
The traditional formation of bubur ayam usually consists of sliced chicken (some prefer to dice it), youtiao (Chinese cruller) or commonly known as cakwe in Indonesia, tongcay (pickled cabbage), celery, chopped scallions, fried shallots, fried soybeans, hard-boiled eggs, satays (gizzard, quail’s eggs, or chicken intestine), Indonesian crackers, and optionally added with sweet or salty soy sauce. From what we can see, more than 50% of the condiments are of Chinese cuisine influence.
Mostly in Jakarta however, the bubur may be cooked without involving too much spice. The traveling vendors usually rely on the additional soup made from chicken stock, coconut milk, and turmeric; making it yellow in color. It’s quite in contrast with West Javanese style that relies much from the spicing during cooking and doesn’t use this additional soup at all.
Regardless when and where it was started or what the style is, bubur ayam has made its way all the way to the top for years. Since 1962, it becomes the ultimate choice for Hotel Indonesia’s guests as a favorite dish. The congee itself reserves the right to be called Bubur Ayam HI, using the abbreviation of Hotel Indonesia itself.
Now under the management of Kempinski, the bubur ayam legacy continues strong. The old recipe is maintained under high standard with some tweaks made to make it even more inviting.
Sous Chef Faizal Kus Laksmana told us, “The original recipe was using only the addition of chicken stock and is available upon request, but we also want to give an approachable sense by providing the santan and turmeric soup as the condiment”.
Creating bubur ayam is actually a painstaking process of slow cooking and how to mix the right ingredients to make the rice congee alone already delectable, not to mention that there’s a lot of condiments to be prepared as well.
“Sometimes elderly guests came here to ask the original version. We met up with their demands and they were happy to remember that the taste was exactly the same like it was in the past”, said the chef again.
The origin of how the bubur ayam here can be so influential was traced back from the time when the hippest people of Jakarta visited the restaurant downstairs after having their all night long parties on the 16th floor of the hotel in Nirwana Lounge. Famished, they asked the staffs to make them bubur ayam for breakfast and that’s how it have since became a customary dish for everyone whenever they visit Hotel Indonesia until this very day.
Hotel Indonesia Kempinski realizes that no matter how familiar the dish may be for Indonesians, but the values behind it are simply too indispensible to not be preserved and shared.
Bubur Ayam HI is available daily at Signatures Restaurant and as a la carte dish.
HOTEL INDONESIA KEMPINSKI | Jalan M.H. Thamrin 1, Jakarta | T: +62.21.2358.3800 | www.kempinski.com
Some consider that Betawi cuisine’s existence is heading towards extinction, however classic rumah makan owners proudly continue the preservation of the cuisine’s long-standing tradition. One of the envoys for this endeavor is the gabus pucung specialist, Rumah Makan H. Nasun.
Native Betawi people were the landowners in Jakarta for so long but due to rapid development of the city, many were forced to sell their property so they can survive and had to move out to the outskirts of the city. That’s why currently areas like Condet, Jagakarsa, and Setu Babakan are places where you can still find Betawi culture at its best.
One of the most renowned Betawi cuisine eateries in South Jakarta is owned by Haji Nasun and his wife since some 30 years ago. In spite of its humble surroundings, this eatery has a large number of fans and frequented by so many on daily basis. The fact that they are usually already finished around 2pm or just within a few hours after they opened makes it intriguing for us foodies.
The sole reason why is because H. Nasun excels in specific traditional dishes such as gabus pucung and pecak gurame. The former for instance, uses only fried snakehead fish and cooked with a sauce consisting of keluwak, garlic, shallot, chilies, turmeric, ginger, terasi, and other Indonesian-style spices. Some say, thanks to the keluwak, the sauce appears like rawon from East Java but a tad spicier. As for the latter, the pecak gurame is also an interesting choice as it uses the much-loved freshwater gourami fish with spices and coconut milk.
Even with its numerous fans, most of them are actually H. Nasun’s traditional customers from generation to generation. But let us explore a bit farther from the town center to find out that there’s more than just blooming modern restaurants of foreign influences and that there is in fact, people who are struggling to keep their proud tradition alive. Starting from H. Nasun, you might realize that Betawi cuisine is more than just kerak telor or bir pletok.
RUMAH MAKAN H. NASUN Halal-friendly Unsuitable for vegetarians
Address: Jalan Moh. Kahfi II no. 21, Jakarta – Indonesia
Of what used to be called as Pad@28 now becomes The Twenty8. Under a whole new management, the establishment reshapes itself with what it offers. On a bright Sunday morning just recently, I decided to pay a visit to the new kid on the block.
The Twenty8 is situated strategically and has the advantage than its peers on Jalan Senopati and Suryo with bigger space to dine-in and also to park the car. Surprisingly though, I never had the chance the try its predecessor.
From the outside, the looks may be the same but it is said that they have rearranged everything inside and gave a new look, although it’s seems a bit unlikely even for a first-timer like me.
Anyway, I was having a good opportunity to sample their brunch menu and a lunch dish during the day. There are plenty that you can choose for your big breakfast such as with salmon, grilled organic chicken, or beef patty that each goes with a slice of beef ham, sausage, egg of your choice, grilled tomato, pickles, baked beans, and a really good slice of grilled bread.
Well, it was a decent brunch and I enjoyed it quite well. Probably the only problem lies still with the slow service but I can see clearly that they are trying really hard to compensate it with a friendly gesture. However, I have to give a good compliment for their effort to elevate the presentation of the dishes as well.
Welcome to the neighborhood then, The Twenty8!
Halal-friendly (pork and alcohol are served here, confirm the use of separate utensils between halal food and pork) Suitable for vegetarians
Address: Jalan Tulodong Atas no. 28, Jakarta – Indonesia