Collage
Grup Accor asal Perancis dengan jaringan hotel-hotelnya yang ternama di seluruh dunia kini menghadirkan salah satu upscale brands-nya dengan nama Pullman. Hadir di Jakarta baru-baru ini, Pullman tidak segan-segan membawa kemewahan itu dengan kehadiran Collage sebagai restoran internasionalnya.
Pengalaman memasuki Pullman bisa jadi adalah suatu hal yang tidak lazim. Pada umumnya ketika memasuki sebuah hotel bintang lima, biasanya kita merasakan kesan mewah yang terkadang intimidatif. Lain halnya dengan Pullman yang sengaja didesain dengan suasana kreatif dan casual namun juga masih menghadirkan suasana classy di dalamnya.
Dengan perpaduan gaya antara kontemporer, pop art dan berbagai display hiasan yang tidak lazim untuk hotelnya, tentu Collage sendiripun tidak kalah funky dan dilengkapi dengan open kitchens yang mengetengahkan berbagai sajian kuliner internasional serta sedikit sentuhan ala Jepang, Peranakan, India, dan tentunya Indonesia.
Pimpinan orkestra kuliner dari Collage adalah warga negara Perancis dengan nama Chef Eric Baudru yang berdarah Korea Selatan. Chef Eric meluangkan waktu untuk menjelaskan mengenai masakan-masakannya untuk Collage yang memang banyak dipengaruhi hidangan ala Mediterania yang segar dan banyak menggunakan sea food di dalamnya. Tentu saja demikian, karena kota asalnya adalah Avignon terletak tidak jauh dari Marseilles yang berbatasan langsung dengan Laut Tengah.
Sebagai pembuka, Collage mempersembahkan sushi dan sashimi segar yang bisa dipesan sesuai keinginan. Selain itu tentu berbagai micro food seperti foie gras brulee dan kawan-kawan serta raw oysters mungkin saja justru terlalu tajam dan berat sebagai pembuka karena rasanya yang khas. Alternatively, berbagai macam keju, salmon gravalax, pastrami dan cold cuts bisa menjadi pilihan menu pembuka anda.
Melangkah ke bagian berikutnya tentu akan membuat anda sedikit bingung karena pilihan yang tersedia begitu banyak. Anda bisa melangkah ke bagian Asia Timur yang terdiri atas bebek char siu, dim sum, hingga India dengan roti naan, nasi biryani, dan berbagai pendamping dagingnya dengan assorted chutneys.
Tapi yang menjadi juara dari semuanya adalah justru menu tradisional Indonesia dengan nama nasi bakar yang berisi daging sapi dan beraroma wangi khas rempah-rempah Indonesia. Tentunya yang tidak boleh terlewat juga adalah carving tables dengan grilled shortribs-nya yang telah melewati fase slow cooking selama 72 jam dan berhasil menjadikannya lezat sekaligus lembut dan juicy.
Ternyata bukanlah sebuah pengalaman isapan jempol belaka dengan apa yang akan anda rasakan bersama Pullman Hotel. Selain menikmati sisi artistik hotel ini, suasana belanja lengkap di mall-mall sekitarnya serta pemandangan kota yang menakjubkan, pengalaman di Collage menjadi satu hal yang juga tidak boleh dilewatkan.
Collage
Halal-friendly
Address: Podomoro City, Jl. Letjen S. Parman Kav. 28, Jakarta
RSVP:
Atmosphere: Funky modern pop art museum turned into hotel.
Ambiance: Conversational.
Service: A five star hotel. You expect more?
Pricing: TBA
Opening Hours: TBA
Twitter: @Pullman_Jkt_CP
Facebook: pullmanjakartacp
-Featured in HANG OUT JAKARTA January 2012 edition (unedited)-
The Gastronomy Aficionado in 2011
Ah it’s just an annual survey of how my blog’s doing in 2011 and I wanna thank you guys again for visiting my modest home here. I wouldn’t be here if it weren’t up to you guys!
Thanks again and let’s savor 2012 together! 
Here’s an excerpt:
The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 48,000 times in 2011. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 18 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.
The Multicultural MasterChef, Adam Liaw
TGA and Adam Liaw
Kecintaannya pada memasak membuat Adam Liaw memutuskan untuk mengikuti audisi MasterChef Australia hampir dua tahun yang lalu. Siapa yang menyangka keputusannya meninggalkan profesi tetapnya sebagai lawyer justru akan membawanya menuju kesuksesan cepat di usia muda setelah menjuarainya?
Waktu bergulir dan berbagai kegiatan telah dilaluinya setelah menjuarai kompetisi tersebut. Selain telah meluncurkan buku memasaknya yang sukses berjudul Two Asian Kitchens, Adam Liaw juga kini tengah mempersiapkan diri untuk membuka sebuah restoran di Jepang.
Portico beberapa waktu yang lalu mengundang Adam Liaw untuk sebuah event selama dua hari dimana ia memasak hidangan-hidangan khasnya untuk 400 pengunjung. Hanya dalam waktu kurang dari seminggu dan tanpa promosi selain lewat Twitter, event ini langsung fully booked dalam sekejap.
Sebelumnya HOJ mendapatkan kesempatan untuk mewawancarainya dalam sebuah press conference yang intimate dan mendengar langsung kiat-kiatnya untuk menjadi seorang ahli masak yang seru dalam kesehariannya serta kisah saat berkompetisi pada MasterChef Australia.
Apa sih konsep dari buku Anda?
Konsepnya sangat personal. ‘Two Asian Kitchens’ terdiri dari dua bagian yaitu New dan Old. Di bagian Old Kitchen, ceritanya mengenai masakan-masakan khas keluarga saya sejak kecil dan juga masakan-masakan favorit saya saat perjalanan saya ke China, Jepang, serta Korea, Vietnam dan Thailand.
New Kitchen bercerita bagaimana pengalaman kuliner saya selama ini berpengaruh langsung ketika saya berada di perantauan. Contohnya ketika saya berada di Jepang, saya yang tumbuh dari pengaruh masakan Malaysia, Peranakan, Chinese, dan juga Australia harus menyesuaikan apa yang saya masak dengan kondisi di Jepang yang memiliki situasi dan bumbu yang berbeda-beda.
Bagaimana tanggapan masyarakat ketika buku Anda terbit?
Banyak respon bagus dari berbagai kalangan termasuk para penulis berpengaruh di Australia. Rencananya dalam waktu dekat ini buku saya akan diterjemahkan ke bahasa Belanda dan akan diterbitkan di Eropa serta Afrika Selatan.
Proses penyusunannya sangatlah menyenangkan. Semua orang yang mencintai makanan akan berharap bisa menulis suatu buku kelak dan saya mendapatkan kesempatan itu. Penyusunannya sangat sulit tapi saya sangat menikmatinya.
Apakah Anda membaca buku-buku masakan lainnya?
Ya dan sangat banyak. Salah satu yang sering saya baca waktu kecil dulu adalah ‘Complete Asian Cookbook’ oleh Charmaine Solomon yang sangat klasik. Tapi favorit saya adalah ‘Cooking Bold and Fearless’ dari sebuah penerbit di California yang saya temukan di toko loak di Jepang seharga satu dollar saja! Diterbitkan pada tahun 1950an saat dimana Amerika mungkin hanya mengenai hot dog dan hamburger tapi justru di buku ini banyak dikenalkan masakan seperti char siu, kari India, sushi, dan teriyaki!
Bagaimana hubungan Anda dengan peserta MasterChef lainnya sekarang?
Callum (Hann) dan saya baru saja bermain sepak bola kemarin. Kami kalah 7-1 (tertawa) dan dia yang menciptakan gol semata wayang itu. Saya tetap berhubungan dengan semuanya sejak MasterChef selesai syuting tapi juga saya menjadi sangat sibuk. Terhitung sejak selesai satu setengah tahun yang lalu, saya sering mengadakan perjalanan kemana-mana seperti baru-baru saja saya kembali dari food and wine Show di Johannesburg, pembukaan restoran di Sydney dan lain-lain.
Apakah pencapaian terbesar Anda selama ini?
Buku saya. Itu adalah mimpi saya sejak kecil. Selanjutnya adalah pembukaan restoran baru saya tahun depan (2012).
Banyak yang bilang MasterChef Australia tidak sedramatis versi Amerika, mengapa?
Karena pada dasarnya kita semua bersahabat di acara itu. Orang Amerika mungkin senang melihat Joe (Bastianich) atau Gordon (Ramsay) meneriaki para peserta atau para kontestan saling berseteru satu sama lain. Tapi di Australia itu berbeda karena kita selalu bersama setiap saat dan saling bersahabat. Tentunya kami tetap kompetitif tapi tidak negatif. Kita berusaha yang terbaik untuk bersaing, bukan untuk menjatuhkan sesama.
Bagaimana kiat menjadi juara di MasterChef?
Belajarlah sebanyak mungkin, apalagi karena saya bukanlah juru masak yang terbaik di awal kompetisi dan begitu juga untuk Callum. Proses syuting acaranya berlangsung hampir setahun, kurang lebih 11 bulan dan banyak waktu yang digunakan untuk memasak. Keuntungan terbesarnya adalah setiap hari saya menjumpai chef-chef hebat dan berbagai bahan makanan serta bumbu baru, teknik baru, dan pengalaman baru sehingga itulah yang menjadi kekuatan saya.
-Featured in HANG OUT JAKARTA January 2012 edition-
Katsusei
Sekarang adalah era dimana setiap restoran berlomba untuk berspesialisasi atau hanya mengambil ranting kecil dari sebuah pohon raksasa kuliner suatu daerah atau negara. Salah satu yang melakukannya dengan khusus adalah Katsusei dan bagaimanakah mereka menspesialisasikan dirinya dalam salah satu cabang makanan khas Jepang yang terkenal ini?
Kekhasan Katsusei ini adalah pada satu cabang makanan Jepang yang berkutat dengan dunia goreng menggoreng. Selain itu, masakan ini konon adalah bawaan para kaum kolonial Portugal di masa lampau ke negeri Matahari Terbit itu dan telah ‘disempurnakan’ oleh masyarat Jepang. Ya, dengan mudah itulah katsu atau deep fried cutlets seperti yang biasa kita kenal dalam bahasa Inggris. Nama Katsusei jelas mengambil dari kata dasar tersebut sebagai namanya kemudian dengan formula khasnya kini telah merambah hingga ke Indonesia.
Beef Katsu Nabe Set
Sejak beberapa tahun yang lalu Katsusei datang ke Jakarta sebagai franchise dari Utsunomiya yang terkenal sebagai ibukota gyoza di Jepang. Meskipun tidak ada sama sekali jejak gyoza di dalam menunya, Katsusei tampak puas dengan berbagai variasi menu pada area spesialisasinya ini.
Sangat mungkin bahwa selama ini kita terjebak dalam paradigma dimana bahan katsu biasanya didominasi oleh ayam atau beef saja. Namun tentunya tidak di Katsusei karena beragam pilihan lainnya seperti pork, oyster, shrimp, dan scallop katsu dapat dipilih beserta kombinasi side dishes-nya. Untuk ikan terdapat juga pilihan salmon juga dory.
Deeper into the deep fried goodness
Katsu selalu dimulai dari penggunaan panko atau breadcrumbs yang dibalut pada daging sebelum digoreng dan nantinya menghasilkan permukaan crispy. Di Katsusei, perbedaannya adalah pada penggunaan bahan panko yang basah ketimbang yang biasa kita kenal. Setelah digoreng sempurna, herannya tepung ini tidak hanya tetap mampu memberikan kesan crispynamun juga memperkaya citarasa daging yang tengah dinikmati. Rasanya mengingatkan pada ayam goreng bertipikal tekstur basah yang dilengkapi semacam kremesan. Tentunya suatu yang sulit dilewatkan!
Sebagai sausnya, Katsusei menyediakan mangkuk berisi goma atau biji wijen yang bisa ditumbuk sesuai selera sebelum dicampurkan dengan saus tonkatsu yang asam, segar, sekaligus gurih. Langkah penting yang diambil oleh Katsusei untuk dapat menjangkau semua selera masyarakat adalah selain melakukan pemisahan proses dan penyajian antara pork dan daging lainnya, Katsusei juga menciptakan jenis saus tonkatsu yang menggunakan bahan dasar halal.
Beef Katsu Set
Secara keseluruhan petualangan saya saat berkutat dengan chicken katsu dan shrimp katsuberakhir cukup puas dimana volume ayam yang tebal dan memenuhi ekspektasi ternyata tampil dengan apik. Dari segi rasapun masih terbilang comforting. On the other hand, sang udang yang justru tampil besar dan menggiurkan justru belum tampil secemerlang compatriot-nya.
Untungnya, untuk menambah semangat makan tentu sang katsu didampingi satu set lengkap penuh dengan sidekicks yang terdiri dari salad yang bisa diimbuhi antara saus ponzu atau gomasesuai selera. Tidak hanya itu seperti biasa rekan-rekannya adalah semangkuk nasi ketan panas,tsukemono (pickles) dan miso shiru yang hangat dan kental. Ketika semuanya berakhir, jangan lupa untuk menikmati segelas teh hojicha hangat sebagai penetralisir dan penutup yang menenangkan dari petualangan di Katsusei kali ini.
Di saat cerita ini berakhir, ada rasa ingin kembali mencoba berbagai hidangan lainnya namun juga terbersit godaan lain untuk menjajal tetangga satu saudaranya yaitu Toranomon. I’d better put it for my next schedule then because it’s gonna be another adventure. Let’s go!
—–
Katsusei
Address:
- Grand Indonesia, East Mall – Garden District 2, Level 5 #16
- Plaza Indonesia, L1 #E19-19A
RSVP: 021 – 235 800 60 (Grand Indonesia), 021 – 299 235 60 (Plaza Indonesia)
Email: katsusei.pi@ipw.co.id, katsusei.gi@ipw.co.id
Facebook: katsusei.indonesia
Twitter: @katsusei_jkt
BB Pin: 21AB756F
Opening Hours: Mall opening hours (Daily)
Pricing: Around IDR 300,000 for two
-Featured in HANG OUT JAKARTA November 2011 edition (unedited)-
What’s Cooking in 2012?
Dear readers,
How are you?
I hope you are in tiptop shape since it’s about time to enter a new year and I bet you have great agendas to celebrate it.
As for me, I am currently having a peaceful one, partly because I’m rejuvenating myself after a tiring but joyous 2011 and also aiming for new things. There is no time to stop thinking about what I want to invent and having great fun in-between.
First thing first is perhaps to fill in the gaps I made in some sections still written as TBA. Next is to present the most convenient way to share the details about ratings, addresses, etc. So in all, it’s still pretty much the same but my idealistic thoughts won’t let me, forever, to present something half-baked.
So assume that I will treat you the best of my ability as a writer, a critic, an aficionado, a cook, a photographer, a moviegoer, a traveler, and anything that I could seek and share for my satisfaction and yours! Let’s pray that we have the strength to carry on and bring the best!
Well, that’s it from me and see you next year! Thanks always and God bless.
RF
Aoki
Fresh Sashimi
Heralding the true flavour of Japanese cuisine from Nagoya, Aoki now completes its resurrection with a dashing new look and exciting new dishes. Its compatriot upstairs Le Gran Mahakam has successfully indulged Aquila Asia in the past edition, now it’s the time of truth for the new Aoki.
Aoki has actually become a fine addition to a city that no longer strange to Japanese culture. But to stand up against the tide of overwhelming competition, it had to undergone an intense makeup since the late 2010 until very recent, Aoki finally reopens and ready to get into the competition again.
The place it resides in, the Mahakam Street, is actually in heavy conjunction with Blok M and Melawai vicinities which have always been known traditionally as the most Japanese district in Jakarta. Take a look at, for instance, the Little Tokyo area just nearby all geared up with Japanese izakaya (Japanese bar), restaurants, hotels and Japanese supermarkets. While it’s a common thing for most Japanese expatriates to reside in Southern Jakarta salubrious districts during their tenure here but the thing is that they do have one common taste they longed for, Japanese restaurant with a very Japanese flavour.
Shabu Shabu
That’s probably one of the reasons why originally Aoki, hailed from a famous eatery back in Nagoya, was franchised by Gran Mahakam. As the basics, Mr. Ignatius Suyanto, the manager of Aoki for the past decade exclaims that Aoki still imported sauces such as wafu (Japanese vinaigrette dressing) and ponzu (Japanese vinegar and citrus dressing) straight from the original Aoki. However with the appearance, Aoki also daringly produces new dishes infused with modern fusion Japanese as well as retaining the originals such as mentioned on the tagline, sukiyaki (Japanese sweet hot pot) and shabu-shabu (Japanese savoury hot pot). Mr. Suyanto further explains that to maintain the quality it’s a must for the backbones in kitchen department to receive specific education first abroad at Aoki in Nagoya.
So how does it look like now? Enter from the special entrance for Aoki, you will then be escorted to a stairway heading for the lower level of the hotel. Suddenly the intensity of dark and elegant surroundings of blackish floors, green lights, modern partitions and finally the oriental wooden parquets will seize you and taking you instantly to the twilight world of Aoki. It’s so different now! What used to be perceived as an old fashioned restaurant has now evolved itself into an elegant yet intimate dining scene. Beautiful though personally, I think that no matter how this facade may cater your privacy needs but surely a constant gloomy appearance can actually ruin your appetite especially when you encounter a type of cuisine known with its beauty in its presentation.
Surely Aoki has plenty to offer besides that and clearly it never ran short with fresh and inviting openers. For example, if you happen to stumble upon tobiko (flying fish roe) salad, a combination of kyuri (Japanese cucumber), carrot, nori (seaweed), flying fish roes, with wafu dressing, then you are guaranteed with a boosted appetite.
Fresh Crab Handroll
Aoki’s signature fresh crab hand rolled sushi is probably the most intriguing one since it’s quite rare in Jakarta to find a sushi joint that consider a substitution for the use of nori. Instead they use the soya paper which actually tasteless but acceptable for the use in creating sushi or maki and still they look very appealing. The interior which consists of rich and tender combination of crab and tuna are definitely what makes this hand rolled sushi more than just edible but also very delectable!
Dry Sukiyaki
Next if you’re heading straight for the specialties, make sure at least you see how Aoki’s preparing the newly invented dish called dry sukiyaki, served moist unlike the original which usually served with the broth but amazingly still preserve the true flavour of real sukiyaki. Though what you usually experience with sukiyaki and shabu-shabu is when people surround, cook and eat from a hot pot full of thinly sliced beef and plenty of beautiful vegetables. A very hearty meal indeed! But here in Aoki, it’s served individually, one by one in turn, thus making it lack in the togetherness value.
Nevertheless it’s undoubtedly delicious thanks to the supreme quality of the Wagyu beef, fresh vegetables and most of all, the secret concoction of Aoki’s sukiyaki sauce. Then again, if you wish to rekindle the family values, you can always choose the original sukiyaki or the shabu-shabu cooked on the middle of your dining table over a kaminabe (hot pot made from paper).
Homemade Ice Cream
For the closure, make sure to enjoy Aoki’s special homemade matcha (green tea) or ogura (red beans) served on a vase filled with dry ice and that makes the ice cream looks steaming up and very alluring. Surely what other wonderful way to wrap up your dinner if not with a thick and fulfilling bowl of ice cream? Even the kids would love to have it more!
With such apparent result, the rejuvenation of Aoki was indeed not a futile effort though also not without its flaws. It’s arguably a terrific option for business or a private session but a family dine out actually requires a more vigorous surroundings. Even so, you’d still be very impressed with how they treat you as kings and queens. Not to forget also, the gorgeous dishes and how flavoursome they are. It’s Aoki, ladies and gentlemen.
AOKI
Gran Mahakam Hotel. Jl. Mahakam I No. 6 Blok M, Jakarta 12130, Indonesia
Website: http://www.granmahakam.com
Facebook: Gran-Mahakam-Hotel
Twitter: @granmahakam
RSVP: 021 – 720 99 66
Halal Meter: Halal-friendly.
Vegetarian Friendly: Yes.
Reservation: Recommended especially for Sunday Brunch and group meetings.
Opening Hours: TBA
Price: TBA
Madeleine Bistro
Meet Madeleine Bistro, the latest French eatery di Kemang yang berbaur di dalam kemegahan gedung Kemang 89. Sebetulnya terlihat dari luar Kemang 89 lebih seperti butik desain interior seperti banyaknya bisnis serupa di Kemang tapi tunggu dulu, cobalah masuk lebih dalam lagi and meet Mademoiselle Madeleine.
Seriously it’s not the name of the proprietor tapi rasakan senyum terkembang seiring langkah mendekati keberadaannya. Lantas yang terlihat adalah suatu tempat yang jauh dari bayangan bistro Perancis yang rustic, owing to the new building of course, tapi mereka mendesainnya agar tetap terasa hangat. More like a family restaurant with a personal touch. Hanya yang janggal adalah Madeleine Bistro bertetangga langsung dengan Decorus, sang toko desain interior tersebut.
On for the gourmet stuffs shall we?
Yang eksotik khas Perancis tentu adalah Madeleine’s Escargots yang sayangnya tidak tersaji secara tradisional di plat a escargot tapi rasanya masih belum sekaya escargot yang pernah dimasak langsung oleh native chef Perancis dari sebuah restoran lain yang pernah saya kunjungi di Jakarta. Still, all those garlicky buttery sinful goodness still gonna make you drool anyway. Yang tidak kalah seru adalah Nicoise Salad yang tersusun cantik dan lezat dengan tambahan potongan pan seared tuna yang lezat.
Tapi highlights malam itu ada untuk Roasted Pumpkin Chowder dan Duck Confit. Keduanya sebetulnya cocok dan saling sahut menyahut. Sup yang satu ini benar-benar terasa segar, manis, gurih, dan menggelitik semua indera untuk segera melanjutkannya dengan the real deal from main dish! Sempat ragu bahwa rasa labunya tidak akan terasa namun itu benar-benar dugaan yang salah! Justru rasa kuat dari labu sukses terpadu dalam kuah sup yang kental dan kaya serta wangi dari cinnamon. Selain itu rasa ayam dan apel yang menyegarkan sungguh membuat chowder ini menjadi menu pembuka yang sangat menyenangkan!
Escargot & Duck Confit
Segera lanjutkan saja dengan paha bebek Perigord yang legendaris. Sungguh rasa bebek ini begitu sempurna. Pertama adalah rasa daging yang lembut dan matang bersama-sama dengan bagian fatty dari bebek tersebut yang gurih. Selain itu kulitnya yang crispy benar-benar menambah semangat melahapnya. Tapi jangan khawatir, Madeleine Bistro mau berepot-repot menyediakan salad yang kaya sebagai pendamping bebeknya so steer away from salad for appetizer then. Also if the duck’s getting heavy, simply combine it with the orange from the salad! That’s one helluva beautiful combination.
Penutupnya terang apalagi kalau bukan menu rahasia Madeleine Bistro yaitu Semifreddo kopi yang wangi dan nikmat. Or care to try the strawberry and blueberry mousse?
Either way, it was a wondrous experience at Madeleine Bistro. I’m in awe.
Rating: ***
Address: Jl. Kemang no. 89, Jakarta 12730
Phone: 021 – 7179 4538
Cash and all cards accepted
Website: http://www.madeleinebistro.co.id/
Twitter: @madbistrojkt
Facebook: Madeleine-Bistro
Price: Appetizers and Soup IDR 40K – 185K, Main Dishes IDR 75K – 150K, Grills IDR 285K – 305K, Desserts IDR 40K – 45K
Opening Hours: 11 am – 11 pm daily
-Featured in HANG OUT JAKARTA October 2011 edition-
The Gastronomy Aficionado’s Journal: The Magical French Dining Experience at Lyon
As part of the commitment to bring innovative dining experiences, Mandarin Oriental Jakarta brought another French chef again last November and Lyon again was chosen as the host for another turn of creative French dishes.
Chef Jerome Laurent hailed from Arles, France and had been awarded with the distinguished one Michelin star for his restaurant Le Cilantro in 2007. His cuisine represents Mediterranean style with many roots of his ancestry and of course, Mediterranean cuisine has always been a great choice especially for southern French kitchens since it delivers unique sea freshness and blends well with other influences.
The theme was pretty much similar with the prior visiting chef, Mr. Fabien Lefebvre, a few months earlier. Fresh, light, and without doubt, very inviting. Accompanied with Mandarin Oriental team of public relations, Ms. Endamia Karina and Ms. Malinda Yasmin, the three of us together explored the richness of French cuisine a la Mr. Jerome Laurent.
French frutti di mare a la Maghreb
The joyous journey started from the introduction of red mullet which was seared perfectly to achieve crisp exterior but still retains its moist body. Without doubt, the fish was supreme and alongside, the staple of Middle Eastern cuisine known as hummus conducted its role perfectly as a dipping sauce. More Middle Eastern-ish influence came also from the preserved lemon jus to add more refreshing flavor.
Seared red mullet fillet, hummus, grilled sesame seed and preserved lemonhead jus
Mr. Laurent apparently has roots from both Spanish and Northern Africa. That’s probably why he had taken the step to insert these influences into his dishes in which these dishes also represent the lineup of Le Cilantro menu. Usually the differences applied for ingredients eligible for substitutions such as for example vegetables, fish, and fruit or the chef may even experiment on other things.
The next phase before the real main dish was also involving the fish and this time it was caramelized. The prime red emperor snapper was chosen, giving me a personal insight to expand my dictionary of fishes. Previously I had always given a thought that if it’s a fish dish again then it must be another barracuda from Papua New Guinea waters but it turned out that it wasn’t, much to my contentment and curiosity.
Caramelized empror fillet, garden vegetables and sage emulsion
The result was also astonishing and again it gives a tender approach for the meat but this time it was much sweeter. For the sidekicks, garden vegetables braised with garlic and completed with sage emulsion gave this journey a further fresh start to prepare the main dish.
On for wagyu and a very mango-ish closure
Thus the medium-well grilled wagyu basked with aromates of capers, dry tomatoes, and potatoes diced and bathed with the reduction of Syrah red wine jus was the main theme of the afternoon with the accompaniment of potato puree. Mr. Laurent specifically picked not a very fatty wagyu for this dish and the reduction of red wine was indeed the soul of excitements found in the aromates and the sauce.
Wagyu beef topped with aromates, potato puree and syrah wine jus
In all, the dish not only provided a mouthful and juicy wagyu but also a savory yet sweet aromates that did well as the comrade of the beef. But still, Mr. Laurent managed to keep it balanced and light up until this point and I don’t seem to be bothered with the four-course lunch as I’m headed next for the dessert.
Lucky for everyone, it’s the mango season and you wouldn’t find it anywhere in this world for the best mango except in Indonesia. Mr. Laurent gleefully recreated a very special dessert that consists of mango tart with mango sorbet. He experimented using a chili to compensate the intense sweetness of the mango. It may be a bizarre combination but if you remember eating your usual rujak from hawkers then you’ll remember why they put a powdered chili.
That’s exactly what Mr. Laurent attempted to apply for his dessert and individually it tasted very overpowering. The mango sorbet felt too sweet and the powdered chili was of course, spicy. But when combined, they created this catalyst effect that will reduce the each character and turn it to ultimate balance of refreshing sweetness of mango. Excellent!
Mango tart, mascarpone cream with lime zest
As for the mango tart, Mr. Laurent mingled both almond cream for the tart and then topped it with fresh mascarpone cream with mango balls and golden leaves. To avoid the dull taste of mango in every corner of the dish, Mr. Laurent deliberately mixed the creation of mango balls with passion fruit. Truly, it was a wondrous ending of a magical treat from Mr. Laurent.
The true colors of Chef Jerome Laurent
Afterwards, Mr. Laurent came from table to table to see how the patrons were doing and then came the casual talk about his vision as a chef. From his broad experience for almost two decades and his achievements, one may wonder why Mr. Laurent strikes as a very down-to-earth personality and may not seem that ambitious.
He later explained that what matters to him is actually the joy of cooking, taking care of his restaurant and his loyal patrons. That means also to listen to what they have to say and the patrons in Arles usually those who visit his restaurant for at least a couple of times per week.
Chef Jerome Laurent
When asked about aiming for the second or even the third Michelin star, he said that it’s just a value-added bonus and he doesn’t want to ruin all the fun he’s having now. What matters is the first star and that distinguished Le Cilantro from others.
So again, I’m not only enlightened with the exciting event inside a beautiful venue of Lyon and all those perfect dishes I just had, but also with a vision of uniqueness and simplicity but thoroughly beautiful, stating that it should be all about fun in doing what you love and also creatively.
What’s next would be another surprise from Mandarin Oriental in 2012 and most likely, another great experience with another Michelin-starred chef. It’s truly an innovation where perhaps in the near future, Jakarta will not just only invite these chefs but also own its first Michelin-star restaurant. I will cross my fingers for it to happen.
Bagel Bagel
Dahulu kita pernah mengalami demam warga Jakarta akan kehadiran pancake dan waffle. Tidak lama muncul juga varian crepes ala restoran, galette, dan churros. Pada dessert section tentu kita tidak lupa akan kehadiran penting froyo serta mixed ice cream over frozen stone.
So what’s next? Kali ini, empat wanita muda berbekal pengalaman hidup di luar negeri membawakan jenis roti yang populer di Amerika. Ya, itulah bagel dan realisasi mimpi mereka tertuang dengan membuka sebuah kedai di Kemang dengan nama yang serupa dan mudah diingat, Bagel Bagel.
Kata bagel mungkin suatu perbendaharaan makanan yang terbilang lazim tak lazim di telinga kita. Sebagai pionir, kepopuleran sukses diraih oleh Bagel Bagel dalam waktu singkat. Tak ayal hal ini mengundang rasa ingin tahu apakah yang mereka sebenarnya suguhkan dengan bagel ini.
Dengan segala keterbatasan yang ada, Bagel Bagel ternyata berani mengadopsi cara berjualan yang disesuaikan dengan gaya para New Yorkers yang biasanya menyambar bagel and coffee for quick breakfast. Selain itu mereka juga berimprovisasi untuk lebih mengutamakan delivery. Bagaimana tidak? Dengan kapasitas kecil dan desain yang lebih menyerupai kantin, memang tampaknya lebih nyaman membawa pulang pesanan bagel kita or just simply let them deliver it.
Selain menjual fresh bagels dengan berbagai topping dimulai dari plain, poppy seed, sesame seed, whole wheat, dan lain-lain, mereka juga menciptakan menu bagel dengan macam-macam isian yang menggugah selera. Tapi yang perlu diketahui dulu adalah bahwa bagel berasal dari jaman dahulu kala pada abad pertengahan. Bersiaplah dengan sebuah jenis roti dengan eksterior yang crispy namun ternyata agak menipu karena bagian dalamnya yang liat dan agak keras.
Jadi buang jauh-jauh dulu impian tentang lunaknya burger atau hot dog cause Bagel Bagel’s gonna teach your jaw a chewing lesson. But it’s not as bad as it sounds, isiannya ternyata cantik dan menarik. Mungkin yang paling khas adalah jenis Lox yang berisi salmon asap dengan Philadelphia cream cheese. Tapi opsi yang paling aman untuk semua orang adalah Egg, Bacon, and Cheese. Rasanya cukup kaya dan gurih mengingat jasa cheddar cheese yang selalu cocok di segala suasana.
Yang saya pilih justru bagel sandwich yang tidak ada di menu yaitu yang berisi roasted turkey with cranberry sauce. Sedikit banyak mengingatkan saya pada Swedish meatball di IKEA namun sayangnya rasa cranberry sauce-nya kurang mampu menyaingi ketajaman rasa turkey-nya. Apalagi turkey memang meninggalkan semacam rasa amis yang biasanya kita temui lazimnya pada bebek atau ikan meskipun agak berbeda. Namun demikian, ini adalah eksperimen yang seru bersama rekan orientalnya yaitu Thai Spicy Chicken dibandingkan rasa konservatif pada Smoked Beef & Cheese, Tuna Salad, atau Veggie.
Jadi meski dari segi makanan cukup menjanjikan namun suasana perut lapar rasanya masih kurang hanya dengan satu bagel saja. Dari segi harga sendiri sebetulnya tidak bisa terbilang affordable dan kita bisa dengan mudah mencari substitusinya dengan makanan lain yang bisa jadi lebih fancy pada level harga yang sama. Tapi tolonglah Bagel Bagel, setidaknya carikan solusi untuk tempat makan yang lebih nyaman dan tempat parkir yang lebih memadai! We can hang out all right or you can always make bigger bagels for a substitute right?
Bagel Bagel
Halal-friendly
Address: Jl. Benda no. 10, Kemang, Jakarta 12560
RSVP: 021 – 782 7218
Atmosphere: Passersby taking away bagels and coffee.
Ambiance: Easy peacy Japanesy.
Service: Formidable, thanks to the small environment.
Pricing: Bagel sandwiches IDR 40 – 55; fresh bagels (plain or with toppings) IDR 10 each, IDR 55 (half dozen), IDR 105 (dozen); Mini bagels (25 for IDR 475 and 60 for IDR 1,100)
Opening Hours: Everyday 6 am to 8 pm (weekday) & 6 am to 9 pm (weekend)
Twitter: @Bagel2Bagel
Facebook: Bagel-Bagel
Email: bagelbagelindo@gmail.com
-Featured in HANG OUT JAKARTA October 2011 edition (unedited)-
Sunny Side Up
Egg Benedict
Bringing out the same old story with better quality is what we usually do, but taking it to the next level and inventing new things are what we all are yearning for. Sunny Side Up is apparently inventing a new trend of eating this particular ingredient without worries! After all the fuss about froyo, pancake, and other things, now the tide has turned in favor of this very basic ingredient. Eggs.
I thought it’s all about brekkie dishes a la Anglais like those we see in TV or your typical American diner with all the bacon, baked beans, tomatoes, potatoes, and you know what else. Probably it’s the design of the place that’s different since I rarely or even have not seen diners like those in America here with the 60s cushions, bar stools, and waitresses bringing out black coffee straight for you.
Sunny Side Up apart from the fact that it’s located far, far away in a different universe of Gading Serpong, is actually a pleasant place. Currently located just across the biggest mall there on an resident-office (ruko) complex and soon expanding itself right into the heart of the mall after only 5 months being in the business. When asked, the proprietor Ms. Vanessa answered that ‘We need to diversify as the market here in the ruko usually serves for office workers looking for lunch and mothers waiting for their kids in nearby school but in mall, everybody’s simply coming especially during weekend’.
I was actually already in awe with the egg concept but the owner even rises the stakes with bountiful menu of various techniques of Western dishes, Japanese dishes, and a halal certification. To make it safe and healthy, Sunny Side Up uses eggs from the special breed of Ayam Arab or to be exact, the descendants from Belgian Brakel chickens brought via a hajj pilgrim to be bred here. In the end, this breed produces egg in small size, notably because it’s a kampung type or known more as organic-bred chicken, and the egg itself is different from others.
Apart from the small size, the egg possess redder yolk owing from the high level of beta-carotene and also high in Omega 3. The owner even assured me not to worry about getting caught with abscess. So it’s pretty much the healthier kind of egg but the color of the yolk when applied to dishes is surely very inviting.
A very ‘eggy’ lineup of dishes
It was a very hot day at Gading Serpong and I thought a cold drink will do the trick. There’s the star of the beverages which is the eggnog but it’s best served hot. Thought I save it for another day and then came an idea to just try instead the white yolk juice, said to be the best choice there for protein supplement. Intriguing! And it’s the cappuccino flavor that I chose.
White Yolk Juice
It came with a huge glass and a handle describing a circling arm full of muscle! A bit curious about the use of egg whites there and it tasted good after all. I feel like I’m not being tricked by cheap coffee shops that sell cappuccino but tastes actually more like water infused with cappuccino flavoring.
Not this one here of course! I was a bit surprised when they say that they had used six egg whites for the drink and no wonder it was huge! There’s no sign of egg smell at all and it just tasted sweet and refreshing. A good choice!
Rambutan Quail Eggs
The menu itself is like a gold mine. Plenty to be chosen from appetizers such as the signature rambutan quail eggs, main dishes like eggs in forms of omelette, scrambled, baked, fried, boiled, salted, in soup, combined with rice, and finally the chef’s signature skills in Japanese dishes. Not just that, the fiesta continues with toast, sandwich, and sweets like pancakes, waffles, thus ended with special drinks that use eggs.
I could spend everyday to try new things here as the combinations seem unlimited and tempting. Not to forget that the price for every dishes appear very friendly.
Egg itself is actually one of my most favorite ingredients and I always remember why Simca, the co-writer of the famous French cookbook by Julia Child, used to say that one chapter should be dedicated only for eggs and eggs only!
A very ‘eggy’ lunch!
After a strange appetizer treat of rambutan quail eggs, wrapped with beef and haired with wonton skins shaped like sticks then fried, and also another one which was actually on the contrary wondrous. It was simply a thin bacon surrounded a runny egg with herbs. A great treat for appetizer and for that I continued to the main dish with full spirit!
Broccoli and Crab Sauce
And that would be the good but a different version of Egg Benedict. It’s pretty much the same in shape and order which is the egg, a patty, and a muffin. But the differences were the style of the egg and the sauce. While the original version uses Hollandaise sauce and poached egg but not here in Sunny Side Up. At least it’s still a bit runny and using a barbecue sauce which was too thick and still less sharper like the magical one made in The Butcher. The patty was however good enough and they even added some salad and fries as the sides.
The other dish was the enigmatic broccoli with egg and crab sauce. It’s pretty promising judging from the looks but quite unfortunate that the sauce and the eggs didn’t mix well. As individuals, the sauce was superb but when mixed, it felt as if they negate each other and put the flavor to neutral position to the point of dissatisfaction. Perhaps it’s imperative to even overpower the crab sauce a bit just to make sure that it blends well with the eggs and the broccoli.
Quite admirable judging that they had daringly started a venture creating a new trend in consuming eggs and also put themselves in halal position which is actually quite rare especially related with a diner’s dishes. A remarkable feat and I’m pretty much hoping that they can open up more outlets soon closer to Jakarta.
Rise and shine, Sunny Side Up! The world’s bigger than just Serpong. Are you ready?
Sunny Side Up
Halal-certified
Address: Ruko Alexandrite Blok ALX3 no. 7, Serpong, Tangerang
RSVP: 021 – 542 206 13
Atmosphere: Cheerful and full of light though the AC may not be able to subdue the heat completely.
Ambiance: Conversational.
Service: Just fine.
Opening Hours: 10 am – 10 pm (daily)
Pricing: TBA
Twitter: @sunnysideup_gs
